B&W printed on Color paper is generally a bad idea. That's what you got from Wal-Mart. To get the best results, you need to print it one real silver based B&W paper or scan them and print them yourself. Or you need to find a lab that really knows what they're doing to get decent results on Color Print paper.
Glen Tortorella wrote: > I forgot to ask: is all C-41 processing the same? I ask because on > my C-41 B&W I had processed at Wal-Mart, some of the whites have a > bit of a purplish tone. My instinct tells me that this is a result > of inadequate light in these particular photos...or is C-41 for B&W > at Wal-Mart just a bad idea? > > Thanks, > Glen > > On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:10 AM, Adam Maas wrote: > > >> Try each, settle on whichever produces the better results for you >> (I'd forgotten the N80 was 1/2 stops only). The flash system in the >> N80 is essentially identical to the F100 (as is the metering) apart >> from the F100's selectable exposure stop increments. >> >> -Adam >> >> >> Glen Tortorella wrote: >> >>> Thank you, Adam, for your detailed commentary. Also, I thank >>> everyone else who has responded--even the fellow who said I should >>> have bought a Pentax (Dave, I think) :-) >>> >>> Adam: I tried dialing-in the -0.7 FEC value you suggest. It seems >>> the N80 will take only 1/2 increments (-0.5, -1.0, etc.). I do not >>> see any other way to set it. Is there something I am missing? Also, >>> if I am correct about this, would -0.5 be sufficient, or would I be >>> wasting my time?...or is this just another reason to look into an >>> F100 (as you have suggested)? >>> >>> Glen >>> >>> On Oct 3, 2007, at 9:47 AM, Adam Maas wrote: >>> >>> >>>> Glen Tortorella wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi all, >>>>> >>>>> Since I have a new, more "advanced" body, the N80, I tried taking >>>>> some shots I would have avoided in the past. The results were >>>>> awful-- >>>>> not one good shot on the entire role, a miserable 0-for-24 (Kodak >>>>> Gold 200). >>>>> >>>>> In the past, I would avoid two types of shots: 1) indoor shots >>>>> and 2) >>>>> outdoor "high sun" shots in the fair weather months (i.e. during >>>>> the >>>>> hours of about 10:00-4:00). In doing so, I have assured myself >>>>> decent, but not necessarily perfect, results. Since the N80 has a >>>>> better metering system (10-segment) and a pop-up flash that is >>>>> supposed to be pretty good, I figured: "let me see what it can do." >>>>> As I have said, the results were dreadful. Here are the main >>>>> issues. >>>>> >>>>> 1) Every indoor flash shot showed at least moderate spotlight/wash- >>>>> out effect of the subject (people). >>>>> >>>> Dial in -0.7 stops of Flash exposure compensation when shooting >>>> people with Nikon flashes (including the popup). Leave this >>>> permanently dialed in. >>>> >>>> >>>>> 2) On the outdoor "high sun" shots, the camera turned a seemingly >>>>> minor shadows (through the viewfinder) on the subject's face into a >>>>> black blobs that covered almost all of the subject's face. >>>>> >>>> Add flash, leave the -0.7 stops of FEC dialed in. >>>> >>>> >>>>> 3) When taking indoor shots with the flash, I would meter (10- >>>>> segment) something like 1/30 or 1/45 or perhaps 1/60 at, say, f2. >>>>> With the flash powered up, I do not think it ever metered >>>>> differently. For example, 1/30 at f/2 was still 1/30 at f/2 >>>>> with the >>>>> flash enabled. Is this correct, or is there something wrong >>>>> with my >>>>> camera? >>>>> >>>> That is correct, the N80 will attempt to balance the exposure if it >>>> can get the shutter between 1/125 and 1/30 or so, with a slight >>>> bias towards the flash illumination (hence the FEC I recommend). If >>>> you want a pure flash exposure, shoot in manual. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> 4) The one decent shot in the whole role--an indoor shot using only >>>>> available light...go figure?--was spoiled by some sort of small >>>>> speck >>>>> on the subject's face. I usually keep my filter free of dust, etc. >>>>> Could this speck have appeared as a result of the cheap >>>>> processing I >>>>> used (Wal-Mart C-41)? >>>>> >>>> Probably. Check your negs. >>>> >>>> >>>>> I know that using a fill flash may have alleviated the problem >>>>> expressed in issue number 2, but, since I have had my subjects >>>>> turn a >>>>> bit ghastly by using the flash, I am hesitant to use it indoors or >>>>> outdoors. I would appreciate any advice or commentary (or even pep >>>>> talk), as I am pretty down about this. What good is a more >>>>> "advanced" camera if I cannot even come remotely close to >>>>> satisfactory results on the more difficult shots (i.e. indoor, >>>>> "high >>>>> sun," etc.)? >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, >>>>> Glen >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> Fill flash is your friend, but remember direct flash always looks a >>>> bit ghastly. A (cheap) SB-24 and an SC-17 or SC-28 cord will get >>>> the flash off-camera with full TTL, and is a much better option. >>>> >>>> -Adam >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >>>> [email protected] >>>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >>>> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above >>>> and follow the directions. >>>> >>> >> >> -- >> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >> [email protected] >> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above >> and follow the directions. >> > > > -- Remember, it’s pillage then burn. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
