I can't say for sure about A&I, I've never used them.  After my first 
experience with chromogenic B&W printed on color paper I decided to scan 
and print my own images.  The border will eat into your prints, so your 
4x6 prints will really be closer to 3 1/2" by 5 1/2" weather or not 
that's acceptable or not is up to you.

Glen Tortorella wrote:
> Thank you, P.J.  After learning more about this, I would have to  
> agree with you.  It seems like the only lab that would  get it right  
> is A&I.  While their mailers are a bit expensive, it seems they  
> provide the proper services.  What do you think?  Also, if I chose  
> their 4x6 with borders, what effect do the borders have upon sizing?   
> I think the borders look nice, but are they inadvisable for the  
> smallish 4x6 size?
>
> Glen
>
> On Oct 3, 2007, at 10:20 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
>
>   
>> B&W printed on Color paper is generally a bad idea. That's what you  
>> got
>> from Wal-Mart. To get the best results, you need to print it one real
>> silver based B&W paper or scan them and print them yourself. Or you  
>> need
>> to find a lab that really knows what they're doing to get decent  
>> results
>> on Color Print paper.
>>
>> Glen Tortorella wrote:
>>     
>>> I forgot to ask: is all C-41 processing the same?  I ask because on
>>> my C-41 B&W I had processed at Wal-Mart, some of the whites have a
>>> bit of a purplish tone.  My instinct tells me that this is a result
>>> of inadequate light in these particular photos...or is C-41 for B&W
>>> at Wal-Mart just a bad idea?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Glen
>>>
>>> On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:10 AM, Adam Maas wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>       
>>>> Try each, settle on whichever produces the better results for you
>>>> (I'd forgotten the N80 was 1/2 stops only). The flash system in the
>>>> N80 is essentially identical to the F100 (as is the metering) apart
>>>> from the F100's selectable exposure stop increments.
>>>>
>>>> -Adam
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Glen Tortorella wrote:
>>>>
>>>>         
>>>>> Thank you, Adam, for your detailed commentary.  Also, I thank
>>>>> everyone else who has responded--even the fellow who said I should
>>>>> have bought a Pentax (Dave, I think) :-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Adam: I tried dialing-in the -0.7 FEC value you suggest.  It seems
>>>>> the N80 will take only 1/2 increments (-0.5, -1.0, etc.).  I do not
>>>>> see any other way to set it.  Is there something I am missing?   
>>>>> Also,
>>>>> if I am correct about this, would -0.5 be sufficient, or would I be
>>>>> wasting my time?...or is this just another reason to look into an
>>>>> F100 (as you have suggested)?
>>>>>
>>>>> Glen
>>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 3, 2007, at 9:47 AM, Adam Maas wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>           
>>>>>> Glen Tortorella wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>             
>>>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Since I have a new, more "advanced" body, the N80, I tried taking
>>>>>>> some shots I would have avoided in the past.  The results were
>>>>>>> awful--
>>>>>>> not one good shot on the entire role, a miserable 0-for-24 (Kodak
>>>>>>> Gold 200).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> In the past, I would avoid two types of shots: 1) indoor shots
>>>>>>> and 2)
>>>>>>> outdoor "high sun" shots in the fair weather months (i.e. during
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> hours of about 10:00-4:00).  In doing so, I have assured myself
>>>>>>> decent, but not necessarily perfect, results.  Since the N80  
>>>>>>> has a
>>>>>>> better metering system (10-segment) and a pop-up flash that is
>>>>>>> supposed to be pretty good, I figured: "let me see what it can  
>>>>>>> do."
>>>>>>> As I have said, the results were dreadful.  Here are the main
>>>>>>> issues.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 1) Every indoor flash shot showed at least moderate spotlight/ 
>>>>>>> wash-
>>>>>>> out effect of the subject (people).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>               
>>>>>> Dial in -0.7 stops of Flash exposure compensation when shooting
>>>>>> people with Nikon flashes (including the popup). Leave this
>>>>>> permanently dialed in.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>             
>>>>>>> 2) On the outdoor "high sun" shots, the camera turned a seemingly
>>>>>>> minor shadows (through the viewfinder) on the subject's face  
>>>>>>> into a
>>>>>>> black blobs that covered almost all of the subject's face.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>               
>>>>>> Add flash, leave the -0.7 stops of FEC dialed in.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>             
>>>>>>> 3) When taking indoor shots with the flash, I would meter (10-
>>>>>>> segment) something like 1/30 or 1/45 or perhaps 1/60 at, say, f2.
>>>>>>> With the flash powered up, I do not think it ever metered
>>>>>>> differently.  For example, 1/30 at f/2 was still 1/30 at f/2
>>>>>>> with the
>>>>>>> flash enabled.  Is this correct, or is there something wrong
>>>>>>> with my
>>>>>>> camera?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>               
>>>>>> That is correct, the N80 will attempt to balance the exposure  
>>>>>> if it
>>>>>> can get the shutter between 1/125 and 1/30 or so, with a slight
>>>>>> bias towards the flash illumination (hence the FEC I  
>>>>>> recommend). If
>>>>>> you want a pure flash exposure, shoot in manual.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>             
>>>>>>> 4) The one decent shot in the whole role--an indoor shot using  
>>>>>>> only
>>>>>>> available light...go figure?--was spoiled by some sort of small
>>>>>>> speck
>>>>>>> on the subject's face.  I usually keep my filter free of dust,  
>>>>>>> etc.
>>>>>>> Could this speck have appeared as a result of the cheap
>>>>>>> processing I
>>>>>>> used (Wal-Mart C-41)?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>               
>>>>>> Probably. Check your negs.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>             
>>>>>>> I know that using a fill flash may have alleviated the problem
>>>>>>> expressed in issue number 2, but, since I have had my subjects
>>>>>>> turn a
>>>>>>> bit ghastly by using the flash, I am hesitant to use it  
>>>>>>> indoors or
>>>>>>> outdoors.  I would appreciate any advice or commentary (or  
>>>>>>> even pep
>>>>>>> talk), as I am pretty down about this.  What good is a more
>>>>>>> "advanced" camera if I cannot even come remotely close to
>>>>>>> satisfactory results on the more difficult shots (i.e. indoor,
>>>>>>> "high
>>>>>>> sun," etc.)?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>> Glen
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>               
>>>>>> Fill flash is your friend, but remember direct flash always  
>>>>>> looks a
>>>>>> bit ghastly. A (cheap) SB-24 and an SC-17 or SC-28 cord will get
>>>>>> the flash off-camera with full TTL, and is a much better option.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -Adam
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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>>>       
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