Thank you, P.J.  After learning more about this, I would have to  
agree with you.  It seems like the only lab that would  get it right  
is A&I.  While their mailers are a bit expensive, it seems they  
provide the proper services.  What do you think?  Also, if I chose  
their 4x6 with borders, what effect do the borders have upon sizing?   
I think the borders look nice, but are they inadvisable for the  
smallish 4x6 size?

Glen

On Oct 3, 2007, at 10:20 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

> B&W printed on Color paper is generally a bad idea. That's what you  
> got
> from Wal-Mart. To get the best results, you need to print it one real
> silver based B&W paper or scan them and print them yourself. Or you  
> need
> to find a lab that really knows what they're doing to get decent  
> results
> on Color Print paper.
>
> Glen Tortorella wrote:
>> I forgot to ask: is all C-41 processing the same?  I ask because on
>> my C-41 B&W I had processed at Wal-Mart, some of the whites have a
>> bit of a purplish tone.  My instinct tells me that this is a result
>> of inadequate light in these particular photos...or is C-41 for B&W
>> at Wal-Mart just a bad idea?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Glen
>>
>> On Oct 3, 2007, at 11:10 AM, Adam Maas wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Try each, settle on whichever produces the better results for you
>>> (I'd forgotten the N80 was 1/2 stops only). The flash system in the
>>> N80 is essentially identical to the F100 (as is the metering) apart
>>> from the F100's selectable exposure stop increments.
>>>
>>> -Adam
>>>
>>>
>>> Glen Tortorella wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thank you, Adam, for your detailed commentary.  Also, I thank
>>>> everyone else who has responded--even the fellow who said I should
>>>> have bought a Pentax (Dave, I think) :-)
>>>>
>>>> Adam: I tried dialing-in the -0.7 FEC value you suggest.  It seems
>>>> the N80 will take only 1/2 increments (-0.5, -1.0, etc.).  I do not
>>>> see any other way to set it.  Is there something I am missing?   
>>>> Also,
>>>> if I am correct about this, would -0.5 be sufficient, or would I be
>>>> wasting my time?...or is this just another reason to look into an
>>>> F100 (as you have suggested)?
>>>>
>>>> Glen
>>>>
>>>> On Oct 3, 2007, at 9:47 AM, Adam Maas wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Glen Tortorella wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Since I have a new, more "advanced" body, the N80, I tried taking
>>>>>> some shots I would have avoided in the past.  The results were
>>>>>> awful--
>>>>>> not one good shot on the entire role, a miserable 0-for-24 (Kodak
>>>>>> Gold 200).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> In the past, I would avoid two types of shots: 1) indoor shots
>>>>>> and 2)
>>>>>> outdoor "high sun" shots in the fair weather months (i.e. during
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> hours of about 10:00-4:00).  In doing so, I have assured myself
>>>>>> decent, but not necessarily perfect, results.  Since the N80  
>>>>>> has a
>>>>>> better metering system (10-segment) and a pop-up flash that is
>>>>>> supposed to be pretty good, I figured: "let me see what it can  
>>>>>> do."
>>>>>> As I have said, the results were dreadful.  Here are the main
>>>>>> issues.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 1) Every indoor flash shot showed at least moderate spotlight/ 
>>>>>> wash-
>>>>>> out effect of the subject (people).
>>>>>>
>>>>> Dial in -0.7 stops of Flash exposure compensation when shooting
>>>>> people with Nikon flashes (including the popup). Leave this
>>>>> permanently dialed in.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> 2) On the outdoor "high sun" shots, the camera turned a seemingly
>>>>>> minor shadows (through the viewfinder) on the subject's face  
>>>>>> into a
>>>>>> black blobs that covered almost all of the subject's face.
>>>>>>
>>>>> Add flash, leave the -0.7 stops of FEC dialed in.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> 3) When taking indoor shots with the flash, I would meter (10-
>>>>>> segment) something like 1/30 or 1/45 or perhaps 1/60 at, say, f2.
>>>>>> With the flash powered up, I do not think it ever metered
>>>>>> differently.  For example, 1/30 at f/2 was still 1/30 at f/2
>>>>>> with the
>>>>>> flash enabled.  Is this correct, or is there something wrong
>>>>>> with my
>>>>>> camera?
>>>>>>
>>>>> That is correct, the N80 will attempt to balance the exposure  
>>>>> if it
>>>>> can get the shutter between 1/125 and 1/30 or so, with a slight
>>>>> bias towards the flash illumination (hence the FEC I  
>>>>> recommend). If
>>>>> you want a pure flash exposure, shoot in manual.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> 4) The one decent shot in the whole role--an indoor shot using  
>>>>>> only
>>>>>> available light...go figure?--was spoiled by some sort of small
>>>>>> speck
>>>>>> on the subject's face.  I usually keep my filter free of dust,  
>>>>>> etc.
>>>>>> Could this speck have appeared as a result of the cheap
>>>>>> processing I
>>>>>> used (Wal-Mart C-41)?
>>>>>>
>>>>> Probably. Check your negs.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I know that using a fill flash may have alleviated the problem
>>>>>> expressed in issue number 2, but, since I have had my subjects
>>>>>> turn a
>>>>>> bit ghastly by using the flash, I am hesitant to use it  
>>>>>> indoors or
>>>>>> outdoors.  I would appreciate any advice or commentary (or  
>>>>>> even pep
>>>>>> talk), as I am pretty down about this.  What good is a more
>>>>>> "advanced" camera if I cannot even come remotely close to
>>>>>> satisfactory results on the more difficult shots (i.e. indoor,
>>>>>> "high
>>>>>> sun," etc.)?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Glen
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> Fill flash is your friend, but remember direct flash always  
>>>>> looks a
>>>>> bit ghastly. A (cheap) SB-24 and an SC-17 or SC-28 cord will get
>>>>> the flash off-camera with full TTL, and is a much better option.
>>>>>
>>>>> -Adam
>>>>>
>>>>>
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