Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

First time posting so hope this is right!

I'm actually doing just this for Christmas! I've had something planned for each 
family member all year, mostly to learn the period skills and build my 
portfolio. Since I'm broke and already giving them these, I've made them their 
Christmas presents! Except I had to put all my sewing stuff away so my mother 
could put out her Christmas dishes. Basically time has run out and I've nowhere 
to sew. 

My solution is that they're getting my costume renderings with fabric samples 
and everything packaged in a simple frame. That way I've got plenty of time to 
get them made! 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone


> On Dec 17, 2010 07:22:56 EST, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> You can always wrap up the fabric and a print-out of the pattern picture,  
> if you can't get the pattern itself in time.  
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> In a message dated 12/16/2010 10:39:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> otsi...@socket.net writes:
> 
> Don't  know if I actually have time to still get this by  Xmas,
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] What costume-related holiday gifts did you get?

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

I only got some small notions in my stocking, but I got the only book I truly 
wanted this year: The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by 
Kathleen Fasanella. It's not really for historical costuming but will be 
helpful since I'm starting a costuming business. 

On the other hand, my costume design sketches were a great success as gifts for 
the family - now to actually get them made! 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 25, 2010, at 16:19, Lavolta Press  wrote:

> My husband gave me three costume books:
> 
> How the Watch Was Worn: A Fashion for 500 Years, by Genevieve Cummins
> 
> Accessories to Modernity: Fashion and the Feminine in 19th-Century France, by 
> Susan Hiner
> 
> The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain 1860-1914, 
> by Brent Shannon
> 
> A fancy walnut hand mirror
> 
> Also some non-costume books and some chocolate truffles.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> Books on making historic clothing
> www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Costume con

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

I've had the website up for weeks and have been debating about going. Event 
I've never been to one before so not only don't know what to expect but also 
I'm not sure the best way to join in. While I know a lot, I wouldn't call 
myself an expert in many areas. Any ideas/advice for a first timer?

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone 
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] his blue coat

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Sorry I ant include exact dates as I'm at work and it's a hassle to look it up 
on my phone! 

Indigo dyes were around for a long time. However, they were made from extracts 
of plants. This process was extremely costly for the plants themselves, it took 
multiple baths in the he in order to reach that deep rich color that was 
desires. Because of this expense, only the upper class, nobility and the clergy 
were able to afford garments in these colors. I also believe that that dye was 
by colorfast. 

In the 1760's, the first synthetic dyes were discovered, though it took tip 
about the turn of the century till the process was refined. Because it wa now 
synthetic, the lower classes could finally afford garments in this color range.

Again, while I cannot pinpoint my sources by memory, I had looked into this 
last spring while costuming the musical Sweeny Todd where the director wanted a 
vibrant purple waistcoat for Pirrelli's character. Because of the year it was 
set, there was no way He could have afforded that color but unfortunately my 
research went unheaded.

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 1, 2011, at 18:04, Marie Stewart  wrote:

> Hi folks.
> I must, respectfully, disagree with Ann on a point about the color Prussian
> Blue  Prussian Blue is defined as absorbing wavelengths about around 680 nm,
> causing it to appear in visible light as approximately 700 THz.  Which is a
> lovely strong blue leaning towards the violet end of the spectrum,  not to
> the green/yellow end.
> (Methods of Chemical Analysis,  1998)
> 
> I will agree with her that I misspoke when I said it was and aniline dye,
> its a cyanometalate.  I would have been more accurate to say that Prussian
> blue was one of the first chemically synthesized dyes.  Thanks for the
> redirect on that one.
> 
> (navel gazing:  We know that the dye was in the painters sphere in the early
> 1700s  (18th century), but when did it move to the dyers sphere?  Was it in
> the mid-1700s, thanks to Macquer's experiments with reduction, thereby
> giving an easily transportable salt?   Or was it used popularly, or rarely
> before that.   I'm going to go have to go research this. Fascinating
> topic.
> 
> As a nifty side note, and a easy visual reference (although I got it from
> Wikipedia, so take it with a big grain of NaCl) the midnight blue crayon
> was once colored with and called Prussian blue.
> 
> Mari
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] his blue coat

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Sorry, 1860's not 1760's! 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 1, 2011, at 18:04, Marie Stewart  wrote:

> Hi folks.
> I must, respectfully, disagree with Ann on a point about the color Prussian
> Blue  Prussian Blue is defined as absorbing wavelengths about around 680 nm,
> causing it to appear in visible light as approximately 700 THz.  Which is a
> lovely strong blue leaning towards the violet end of the spectrum,  not to
> the green/yellow end.
> (Methods of Chemical Analysis,  1998)
> 
> I will agree with her that I misspoke when I said it was and aniline dye,
> its a cyanometalate.  I would have been more accurate to say that Prussian
> blue was one of the first chemically synthesized dyes.  Thanks for the
> redirect on that one.
> 
> (navel gazing:  We know that the dye was in the painters sphere in the early
> 1700s  (18th century), but when did it move to the dyers sphere?  Was it in
> the mid-1700s, thanks to Macquer's experiments with reduction, thereby
> giving an easily transportable salt?   Or was it used popularly, or rarely
> before that.   I'm going to go have to go research this. Fascinating
> topic.
> 
> As a nifty side note, and a easy visual reference (although I got it from
> Wikipedia, so take it with a big grain of NaCl) the midnight blue crayon
> was once colored with and called Prussian blue.
> 
> Mari
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] his blue coat

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Of course there were all shades of blue, but i didn't think they were indigo. 
Or perhaps is it that while the dye was called indigo, it was only common in 
shades of blue because a blue hue is more a washed out version of true indigo 
(which is more violet than blue)? Obviously the rich could afford to have the 
fabric dyed repeatedly to reach those deep rich shades, but was out of the 
price range for the commoners? 

And Sweeny is set in 1846, long before aniline dyes were thought of. It's also 
a huge stretch to bring that vibrant if a purple that early in the century, 
especially on a street performer/barber trying to look his best. And if a show 
is period in nature, then I do whatever I can to make it true to that era and 
realist as possible with the given budget.

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 1, 2011, at 21:22, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

> By the 18th century, indigo blue was one of the most ubiquitous  colors.  
> All kinds of working clothes were solid blue, or blue and white  checks or 
> stripes.  I grant that the very dark blues may have been a tad  more 
> expensive, though, as they had to be dipped several times.  And  yes, indigo 
> is fast.
> 
> What year was your "Sweeny Todd" set in?  I thought it was late 19th  
> century, and any time after about 1870, one could have had a brilliant purple 
>  
> (by then dyed with aniline dyes) for not too much money.
> 
> Ann Wass 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 2/1/2011 6:20:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> michaeljdeib...@gmail.com writes:
> 
> Sorry I  ant include exact dates as I'm at work and it's a hassle to look 
> it up on my  phone! 
> 
> Indigo dyes were around for a long time. However, they were  made from 
> extracts of plants. This process was extremely costly for the plants  
> themselves, it took multiple baths in the he in order to reach that deep rich 
>  color 
> that was desires. Because of this expense, only the upper class,  nobility 
> and the clergy were able to afford garments in these colors. I also  believe 
> that that dye was by colorfast. 
> 
> In the 1760's, the first  synthetic dyes were discovered, though it took 
> tip about the turn of the  century till the process was refined. Because it 
> wa 
> now synthetic, the lower  classes could finally afford garments in this 
> color range.
> 
> Again, while  I cannot pinpoint my sources by memory, I had looked into 
> this last spring  while costuming the musical Sweeny Todd where the director 
> wanted a vibrant  purple waistcoat for Pirrelli's character. Because of the 
> year it was set,  there was no way He could have afforded that color but 
> unfortunately my  research went unheaded.
> 
> Michael Deibert
> OAS AAS LLS
> Sent from my  iPhone
> 
> On Feb 1, 2011, at 18:04, Marie Stewart   wrote:
> 
>> Hi folks.
>> I must,  respectfully, disagree with Ann on a point about the color 
> Prussian
>> Blue  Prussian Blue is defined as absorbing wavelengths about around 680 
> nm,
>> causing it to appear in visible light as approximately 700  THz.  Which 
> is a
>> lovely strong blue leaning towards the violet  end of the spectrum,  not 
> to
>> the green/yellow end.
>> (Methods of Chemical Analysis,  1998)
>> 
>> I will agree with  her that I misspoke when I said it was and aniline dye,
>> its a  cyanometalate.  I would have been more accurate to say that  
> Prussian
>> blue was one of the first chemically synthesized dyes.   Thanks for the
>> redirect on that one.
>> 
>> (navel  gazing:  We know that the dye was in the painters sphere in the  
> early
>> 1700s  (18th century), but when did it move to the dyers  sphere?  Was it 
> in
>> the mid-1700s, thanks to Macquer's experiments  with reduction, thereby
>> giving an easily transportable  salt?   Or was it used popularly, or 
> rarely
>> before  that.   I'm going to go have to go research this.  Fascinating
>> topic.
>> 
>> As a nifty side note, and a easy  visual reference (although I got it from
>> Wikipedia, so take it with a  big grain of NaCl) the midnight blue crayon
>> was once colored with and  called Prussian blue.
>> 
>> Mari
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing  list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> ___
> h-costume  mailing  list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 100th Anniversary of Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

I might have to catch that if I can. When I was at Clarion University, one of 
our shows for the 2005-2006 season was "The Triangle Factory Fire Project." by 
Christopher Piehler. I was only on crew for the run but it was a really moving 
piece about the incident, told through the stories of those involved. We even 
had the playwright come see a dress rehearsal and got some extra insight.

It's one if those reminders for anyone who sews that there are dangers, and 
that OSHA regulations are there for a reason.


Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 27, 2011, at 4:20,  wrote:

> I am sorry, it is on American Experience on PBS, not NOVA.
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history
> FaceBook:
> http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] History of Costume text?

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Replying on my phone so I apologize for any typos I miss! And I apologize if I 
cone across as arguing, want to make sure we're on the same page in 
understanding even if it means I misunderstood something along the process of 
learning. 

No, the standard industry dress form does not work - unless you're one of the 
small group of people with the "ideal" measurement. In terms of learning 
though, the standard size allows teachers to easily see if something is wrong 
and needs corrected. It's ideal for learning but not for the real world.

Unless I have misunderstood the concept (entirely possible btw!), your fit 
model should not be the industry standard in any measurements. When you develop 
a RTW line, the first major hurdle is determining the market. Is it young 
teenage girls who cannot afford to buy their clothes themselves? Or is it the 
40-65 middle aged women who strive for a professional image? It is impossible 
to make clothing for the "average" customer. Nor is it possible to satisfy 
everyone in terms of sizing. 

Once the market is established and concise enough to be realistic, you create 
your sizes from the measurements and studies of your market. The size medium 
(or it's equivalent numerical size) is what sales reps and sample makers are 
used to working with. Your fit model then is sized according to the 
measurements of your line's size medium. 

I agree that it is frustrating to "waste one's time on something that cannot be 
worn or sold" but how else can they learn the process? The architect doesn't 
build a building while they're earning their degree... The wok with models 
until they learn and master the skills needed. I also am under the impression 
that many programs out there aren't suited for what the industry has in terms 
of job openings. There are plenty of amazing designers who've graduated but 
most don't want to do the manufacturing work themselves (or worse, they don't 
know how even after earning their degree!).

I also am not a fan of Project Runway. I'm glad it seems to be leading kids to 
sew their own clothes that will fit them ... But it's equally pushing out 
designers who think it's easy to produce a line because that's how Project 
Runway does it. Also not a fan of the reality show aspect - the real industry 
is reality enough without adding more competition and challenges! 

But imagine if the kids watching the show, those who want to make clothes not 
to fit themselves but to fit others (because RTW is so crappy), and then are 
given the right skills to follow thru and produce their line - they will not 
only be successful, but will force those manufacturers who don't care about 
size to fix their doing issues and thereby bring the industry back to where it 
should be. That would be the ideal program of study. 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 11, 2011, at 15:33, Lavolta Press  wrote:

> 
>> This is a slight misconception and I'll avoid going into sizing issues. But
>> while there are industrial sized dress forms, the industry standard size is
>> a medium. The actual measurements of your line's medium is based on your
>> target market and your fit model. A fit model is the actual model you will
>> fit everything to - this is where the training on how to custom fit models
>> comes in handy.
> 
> Yes, I know. I did go through more than one RTW class.
> 
> But, the average human body does not have identical proportions to either a 
> standard industry dress form or an industry fit model. That's why 
> ready-to-wear does not fit the average person well. Everyone is unique in 
> terms of the combination of the shape of their shoulders, bust, hips, 
> abdomen, behind, the length of their arms, and many other things. And that's 
> not even counting people who are considered to be overweight or to have 
> physical deformities/medical issues.
> 
> Again, for many students, making something they cannot wear and that they are 
> not currently in a position to sell is throwing away time and money.  
> Students are typically short on both. And again, to a lot of them it sounds 
> fancy to enter an RTW course but that's not really what they will do when 
> they graduate. Colleges look at the numbers and if there are not enough 
> students to justify a class, it's not given.
> 
> I think it's a very good thing that all those teenagers are watching Project 
> Runway and thinking, "Cool!  I want to learn to sew and design clothes!" 
> Because, if people want clothes with a custom fit, fine construction, and/or 
> unique styling, they're typically going to be either spending more than a 
> middle-class person can easily afford to get clothes made for them,  or 
> making their own clothes.  Most ready-to-wear is pretty drecky.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> Books on making historic clothing
> www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> Where the industry process differs from the home-sewing mindset is that
>> after the sample (muslin in home-sewing wo

Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

First, that book is one of the top ones on my wish list! Perhaps I can scavenge 
the money for it bow that I've a specific reason! 

While I'm aiming for Victorian, the style and shape will be geared more towards 
the "average customer" who really wouldn't care if it was early or late 
victorian. It's the hourglass shape, cinching in the waist, while providing 
support and lift and perhaps some cleavage (which would rarely been shown or 
desired to my knowledge in the days the style would be worn!) 

But even though I'm aiming for a general "dumb" wearer, I want to have the 
historical aspect influencing the corset. I hope I'm not contradicting myself! 
Dare I say that my vision is a corset that, with the use of different sized 
gores, be sewn to fit a wide range of sizes and be historical accurate enough 
for re-enactors to wear, but suitable for any woman to wear in place of a bra? 
Does that help any? 

I do know that I plan on using a straight busk not a spoon, so if my memory 
serves right, that puts me in the earlier eras... But you mentioned that gores 
didn't fully show up till the later eras... Is it possible to breed the two 
together and still work? Thus the research! 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 24, 2011, at 6:45, Carol Kocian  wrote:

> Hi Michael,
> 
> What era are you aiming for? Victoria was around for a long time and the 
> "ideal" shape changed through those decades. Gores first show up in the 
> softer corsets of the early 19thC. Having the right shape of the corset makes 
> a difference in the finished look of the outfit.
> 
> My favorite book to start is Corsets & Crinolines by Norah Waugh. The pattern 
> drafts are taken from extant corsets, and it's easy to see how the 
> construction and shapes of the pieces affect the resulting shape of the body.
> 
> -Carol
> 
> 
> On Mar 24, 2011, at 5:15 AM, Michael Deibert wrote:
> 
>> Good morning everyone!
>> 
>> I'm doing some research into corsets, and thought it best to start on here
>> where many of you already have research. While I know a lot regarding
>> corsets, I have two main focuses.
>> 
>> The first is regarding corset patterns. I am hoping to develop a corset
>> pattern and thus would like to be able to have as many corset patterns to
>> base it off of as I can. While any corset pattern works, I am specifically
>> hoping to find Victorian era corset patterns with hip and/or bust gores.
>>> From the many companies out there currently selling commercial pattersn,
>> there are few who focus on corsets with gores. I am looking at trying to
>> simplify the process of grading for different sizes, and believe that there
>> might be a way to accomplish this with gored patterns. So if any of you have
>> or know of patterns that I can get, please direct me in that direction!
>> (Remember copyright laws and direct me to where I can find things, rather
>> than just copy and paste.)
>> 
>> Second, the little research I've done so far indicates that during the
>> Victorian eras, there were many corset patterns that used gores - yet many
>> of the current commercial patterns focus on those without. Is there a reason
>> for this that anyone might be aware of? Is it easier to fit without gores?
>> Are gored patterns more difficult to make up? Any help in this direction is
>> also a huge plus!
>> 
>> Please don't shy away, the more I can accumulate, the better my final
>> pattern shall be once it is ready! Thanks in advance!
>> 
>> Michael Deibert
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

My understanding so far is that the spoon busk was towards the latter half or 
even latter third of the 19th century. I am currently at work and have limited 
access to look it up but I might be completely wrong. "to assume is o make an 
ass between U and ME."

No carol, there is no "average" woman - perhaps I used the wrong terms. I was 
think more along the lines of encompassing more than one specific decade in 
terms of style, that can fit a modern woman's proportions (which are different 
from back then.)

personally, I wish to avoid Goth styles. I'm not dismayed at Steampunk but 
would rather that style able to use my pattern instead of designing it 
specifically for them. 

Kathleen and Ann, In terms of "reinventing the wheel," I almost have to because 
I am aiming to commercially sell either the end result or the pattern, or both. 
Therefore I couldn't use a current working pattern because of copyright issues. 
I'm also looking at it more of going back to the original sources and basing it 
off that even if it closely resembles current working patterns. But I need some 
help in finding those primary sources.

Lisa, I greatly appreciate your opinion of using gores to improve fit! 
. 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 24, 2011, at 7:42, Carol Kocian  wrote:

> 
> 19th century = 1800s, 1801 to 1900. The spoon busk was used in the 19th 
> century. The gores in the soft corset are used in 1820, which sounds like 
> "early" for the time span you are looking at.
> 
> Early and late Victorian are different shapes. I don't know that there is an 
> average customer!
> 
> There are, however, may women who wear corsets for steampunk (not as strict 
> for accuracy) and goth fashion (also no need for historic accuracy). Maybe 
> you are aiming for that market? But once you are talking about reenactors, I 
> consider them to be more interested in accuracy and the look of the dress 
> worn over the corset, so "generic" will only go so far.
> 
> You might also want to look at longline bras and other such modern lingerie. 
> There have been garments, both mainstream and special-occasion, that have bra 
> cups built in.
> 
> -Carol
> 
> 
> On Mar 24, 2011, at 11:26 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> 
>> Which century are you researching?? I think you can perhaps start?with 
>> wikipedia if you don't have Waugh, yet. The spoon busk was quite before the 
>> 19th C. so it wouldn't be considered for the Victorian period anyway.? If 
>> you mean to be historical, I think the "wheel" has already been invented for 
>> the common man (woman).
>> Kathleen, who has been there already
>> .
>> -Original Message-
>> From: "michaeljdeib...@gmail.com" 
>> Sent 3/24/2011 7:10:43 AM
>> To: "Historical Costume" 
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questionsFirst, that book 
>> is one of the top ones on my wish list! Perhaps I can scavenge the money for 
>> it bow that I've a specific reason!
>> While I'm aiming for Victorian, the style and shape will be geared more 
>> towards the "average customer" who really wouldn't care if it was early or 
>> late victorian. It's the hourglass shape, cinching in the waist, while 
>> providing support and lift and perhaps some cleavage (which would rarely 
>> been shown or desired to my knowledge in the days the style would be worn!)
>> But even though I'm aiming for a general "dumb" wearer, I want to have the 
>> historical aspect influencing the corset. I hope I'm not contradicting 
>> myself! Dare I say that my vision is a corset that, with the use of 
>> different sized gores, be sewn to fit a wide range of sizes and be 
>> historical accurate enough for re-enactors to wear, but suitable for any 
>> woman to wear in place of a bra? Does that help any?
>> I do know that I plan on using a straight busk not a spoon, so if my memory 
>> serves right, that puts me in the earlier eras... But you mentioned that 
>> gores didn't fully show up till the later eras... Is it possible to breed 
>> the two together and still work? Thus the research!
>> Michael Deibert
>> OAS AAS LLS
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> On Mar 24, 2011, at 6:45, Carol Kocian  wrote:
>>> Hi Michael,
>>> 
>>> What era are you aiming for? Victoria was around for a long time and the 
>>> "ideal" shape changed through those decades. Gores first show up in the 
>>> softer corsets of the early 19thC. Having the right shape of the corset 
>>> makes a difference in the finished look of the outfit.
>>>

[h-cost] Pros & Cons of Gores in Corsets

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Sharon, 
I personally Believe that there is no wrong question, but I can't vouch for 
everyone.

I too am interested in what everyone's opinions and theories are regarding 
gores in corsets. I believe someone already mentioned that gores went out of 
fashion when things became industrialized due to the fact it was more time 
consuming. 

While a lot can be done with the seam lines of a non-gored corset, I see major 
advantages if the corset is made for a large busted or large hipped woman. The 
amount of flare that would  need to be added can quickly become too large to 
provide the same level of support. Plus, if you use a gore, you have less 
fabric waste in lying out the pattern. 

I'm sure there are other reasons, other theories, and probably some facts that 
haven't been brought up yet. 

So what are you views on this topic?

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 24, 2011, at 15:10, "Sharon Collier"  wrote:

> I'm showing my ignorance here, but I want to learn so...
> Why use gores at all? Why not just incorporate that extra bit into the main
> panel of the corset, as an extra "flared" bit on the end?
> Sharon C. 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of albert...@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 10:37 AM
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions
> 
> 
> 
> I am >>> specifically 
 hoping to find Victorian era corset patterns with hip and/or bust >>>
> gores. 
> 
> One of my fave corset patterns of all time is Past Pattern's # 708 "1845
> -1860". 
> http://www.pastpatterns.com/708.html
> 
> 
> 
> I find it works for 1820's to early 1870's The pattern is lightly boned but
> I have added bones between the bones on the pattern and one could add more.
> The shape is divine!
> 
> 
> After the late 1860's, early 1870's you'll need another more rigid shape. A
> pattern like Past Pattern's #213.
> http://www.pastpatterns.com/213.html
> 
> 
> These should do until you come to the "straight front" corset of the early
> 1900's. This is where Past Patterns and I part ways. DO NOT GET their
> pattern #106
> http://www.pastpatterns.com/106.html
> 
> 
> It is NOT what is illustrated on the front and the patter requires so much
> tweaking that you might as well start from scratch. Hate it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Cameras for photographing costumes in poor light?

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

To add my two cents, a tripod is extremely helpful but also remember that many 
museums, while they allow non-flash photography, do not allow the use of 
tripods. If you have access to actually look at the garments in research areas, 
not sure what is allowed or not but I've yet to tackle that yet.

While my photography knowledge is severely lacking, I would suggest selecting a 
model thy gives you the beat quality photos without a tripod. That way you'll 
get good photos in places you cannot use a tripod, but always have the tripod 
for extra help. 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2011, at 0:11,  wrote:

> My tripod suggest...make sure it is lightweight for travel.  Some can add
> pounds to your luggage and put it overweight...OUCH!  That hurts the
> pocketbook!.
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery Websites
> www.costumegallery.com
> 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history
> FaceBook:
> http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Does the roughly quarter-sized dress form I made count? 

That currently has my trial mock up of the contouche and appropriate 
undergarments that next week will become the life-sized version for my mother.

Add to that list, my sister's crinolines day dress I need to finish with trim, 
and if I'm lucky, whipping up a matching gentleman's suit for my father to 
match my mother's ensemble! 


Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 4, 2011, at 16:44, Cin  wrote:

> It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties,
> winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair,
> theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You
> might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
> the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's
> your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> cinbar...@gmail.com
> 
> PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on
> the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in
> your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the
> sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> cinbar...@gmail.com
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Renaissance dance costumes

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

As far as the men go, you could always tell them that tights are your costume 
unless you'd rather go naked - its worked for me before when I've hit issues 
with men not wanting to wear tights. Or depending if you're aiming for a 
specific decade or just renaissance in general, you could get by with tights 
under a fitted Venetian breeches. 

As for the women's gowns, using a mixture of fabrics or simply colors will add 
variety. You can also do a lot with different trims and patterns of trim. 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 7, 2011, at 20:17, Monica Spence  wrote:

> Cheap and easy: Fabric glue with glitter over it. 
> More expensive Christmas ribbons and small decorative trims by-the-yard. If
> the show is after Christmas, the trim usually is  on sale.  Donated buttons
> make nice jewelry, also.
> 
> Monica Spence
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 6:58 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Renaissance dance costumes
> 
> Dear H-cost list
> 
> I have to make 20 costumes for an upcoming Italian renaissance performance
> and have been thinking about using
> http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh509-1470s-1500-florentine-wo
> mans-outfit-1#.
> Can you think of different ways we can decorate these gowns so they don't
> all look the same? Plus they need to look grand because we will be on stage
> under lights.
> 
> I am still working out what to dress the men in, and fear they will not want
> to wear short doublets and tights :((
> 
> *Aylwen*
> *
> *
> *Aylwen's Historical Costumes*
> www.aylwen.com
> http://aylwen.blogspot.com
> *
> *
> *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy* www.earthlydelights.com.au
> http://edhda.eventbrite.com
> 
> 
> *
> *
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Organizing Hanging Bag System?

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

> As always seems to happen, my sewing area and supplies have exploded and then 
> forced back into various places thus scattering pieces and supplies for 
> various projects. I'm looking for a sturdy, clear bag that I can hang on a 
> hanger, thereby allowing me to put all supplies, notions, and trims inside 
> and have one bag per project. That way I can sort what I have and see at a 
> glance what I have/still need for that project. I'm sure something like what 
> I want exists but cant seem to find it. Also wondering what everyone uses if 
> it's a better method. As always, I'm looking for economical as well. Any 
> ideas/suggestions? 
> 
> Note: Unless they're small pieces or already cut, I keep fabric on bolts or 
> cardboard so that wouldn't be put in said bags. 
> 
> Michael Deibert
> OAS AAS LLS
> Sent from my iPhone
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

After sewing using my mothers machine, I picked up an older metal machine from 
St. Vincent De Paul for $7. Swapped out the electrical plug and it works 
amazingly. Can't determine the brand or year but it's held up better than my 
mothers machine. Many of the newer machines out there are mostly plastic, 
unless you go for higher end models. Unless she plans on quilting or doing 
fancy stitching, stock with a basic zig-zag machine - especially if she plans 
on sewing historical costumes. I personally would rather put my money into 
better materials than a fancy new machine where I only use a few stitches on 
out of the hundred it can do, but that's me. 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 6, 2012, at 11:04, Wicked Frau  wrote:

> If you want to purchase a new machine, I recommend the lower end models of
> Babylock.  I recently went looking on a similar quest and found that for
> the price they seem to offer the most.  Side by side with other machines,
> they made the least noise.  I was really surprised at how clickity clack
> the Pfaff and Bernina were.  This may sound silly, but I figure if my
> machine is making noises brand new, it can mean nothing but wear and
> failure over the long  haul.
> 
> My preference however is to work on all metal vintage machines.  My newest
> is a 1947 Kenmore (which was actually made in Germany).   I have 2 singers
> one of which is a Featherweight.  Both are from the early 1900s.
> 
> I am sure you will get LOTS of differing opinions on this however!
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Katy Bishop  wrote:
> 
>> I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to
>> sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances.  She asked what
>> would be a good starter machine.  Does any one here have
>> recommendations?  Thanks.
>> 
>> --
>> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>> katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
>> Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>>  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>> 
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> -Sg-
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Corset class recommendations

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Does the corset have to be for the students? And how are you planning to deal 
with fittings and such, students pairing up and fitting each other? If so, one 
simple option would be that if the students who wish (either the males or the 
one female you mentioned), could bring in a friend or someone else to "corset."

I think it'd be great if even one of the males made a male corset, but it's not 
the same as a female corset. It might be easier to do a separate segment from 
the overall corset class. That's my two cents.

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 7, 2012, at 21:09, Galadriel  wrote:

> Hi, all.
> 
> I agreed to teach a class at the local university while the regular teacher 
> is on sabbatical.  We're doing corsets in spring and the way the class has 
> been set up in the past, the students pay a course fee for supplies, buy 
> their own fabric, and then get to make corsets they can take home with them.
> 
> So the problem is that I have 2 male students.  I haven't discussed it with 
> them but I was almost hoping they'd want to go ahead and make male corsets.  
> I thought it would be interesting to watch the process.  But if they don't 
> want to do it, I have a problem.  Additionally, I have a female student who 
> dresses solely in male clothes and has expressed that she doesn't want to 
> make a corset for herself.
> 
> Is there anything anyone can think of that will teach the same principles 
> (patterning and fitting a shaping garment, how to make a structured garment) 
> without being a corset, per se?  I'm kind of at a loss.  The female student 
> suggested boned gaiters but I didn't think that was challenging enough, 
> pattern-wise.
> 
> Any awesome brainstorms would be appreciated!
> 
> --Rachel, back to lurking
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Grrrrr ... !

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

All our Walmarts got rid of their fabric awhile back - but they've brought it 
back. It's not what it was and it is hit and miss, but its better than nothing. 

What I've found with our JoAnns is that so many things are on sale and as such, 
coupons are useless - if I really need to use a coupon on fabric, I have to 
plan early enough to get it the one or two weeks of the year it's NOT on sale. 
That and their employees are not helpful on fabric - I worked for them for a 
while and they loved me simply because I knew the difference between cotton and 
wool! 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On May 17, 2012, at 9:44, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

> 
> Does seem rather ironic that we have access to all kinds of exotic things we 
> never thought we could get our hands on, via the Internet, but, locally, our 
> choices are less and less. I still have one JoAnn's that is "run out and pick 
> up a spool of thread" close enough, and two more, along with G Street 
> Fabrics, within reasonable driving distance. But even G Street's assortment 
> is sadly not what it once was--it is a sorry state of affairs when I go there 
> with a 25% off coupon and can't find one thing I want to buy! I think ALL of 
> our WalMarts have gone out of the fabric business. I know their assortment 
> was hit or miss, but I once scored 6 yards of blue/orange Indian cotton plaid 
> that made great early 19th century headwraps in the $1 bin. Hobby Lobby, 
> which recently opened in our area, has a decent assortment of cotton prints. 
> (When I reminded someone of that, she complained because they are more than 
> $5 a yard, but THEY DO HAVE THEM!) 
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Katy Bishop 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Thu, May 17, 2012 9:16 am
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gr ... !
> 
> 
> Exactly--I miss the days of being able to pop out to the store and grab the
> ye I need that day, or have a jug of liquid starch available when I don't
> ave the time to mix my own,, I do still have one of the Wal-Marts with
> fabric section nearby, so I can pop out for kid's costume fabrics if I
> eed to.  Small consolation for the Fabric Place being gone.
> On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 7:35 AM,  wrote:
>> Many formerly readily available items are available via mail order,
> granted. But that doesn't help if you need it tomorrow!  I know, I know,
> just need to plan ahead.
> 
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Thu, May 17, 2012 6:56 am
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gr ... !
> 
> 
> I googled both Argo and Sta-flo and these brands are readily available on
> line...coupons and free shipping for some of the sites. Letting my fingers
> do
> the shopping sure saves on gas!
> -Original Message-
> From: 
> Sent 5/17/2012 3:44:33 AM
> To: "'Historical Costume'" 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gr ... !I believe the reason people are having
> trouble
> finding starch depends on
> supply and demand.  I have no trouble finding Argo and the old blue bottle
> of Sta-flo starch in my area.  If there is not a big demand for the product
> in your area, the stores will drop the product.  In my county, there is
> diversity in age depending where you live.  In the neighborhoods near me,
> people are old enough to know what to do with powder or liquid starch.  If
> I
> drove 10 miles west, where the average people are younger generation, the
> stores' products differ. That generation would rather go to a dry cleaners
> than iron their clothes.If you show a lot of the younger generation a
> box or bottle of starch, they probably wouldn't know what to do with it.
> Many do not even own an ironing board.
> As far as product selection and retailers:
> Watch the Costco documentary that is showing this month on MSNBC.  We have
> problems with Costco dropping products.  The documentary explains how
> Costco
> buys, product lines, markets, etc.  The problem is that the retailer and
> manufacturer cannot agree on their wholesale prices.  When this happens,
> Costco drops the product.  Costco has a 15% markup and regular grocer
> retailers have 25%.  Costco is the number one retailer right now. When
> Costco, Sam's Club or WalMart drops them a product... what an impact the
> top
> three grocery stores can make on a manufacturer.   Costco carries a limited
> assortment or only one product (example ketchup) to deliberately not give
> customers choices.  Research shows that if you only have one or two choices
> of a product, a customer will buy it on spot so they don't have to go to
> another grocery store.  Given a big assortment, a customer is confused and
> will not purchase.
> Here a video of 10 minutes of the documentary:
> http://video.msnbc.msn.com/rock-center/47182853#47182853
> Calvin Klein sued Warnaco Group, a supplier to Costco and other retail
> clubs, for selling CK goods to these cheaper retailers. BTW, you can still
> buy SK goods at Costco.
> 

Re: [h-cost] %$#&* irons!

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

I don't sew much at the moment (work keeps me busy in OT) but if I were to buy 
an iron, I would get a gravity feed one without thinking. They are a bit 
pricier but aren't horrible if you ask around - and like a Uniquely You dress 
form is pricier but worth it, so is a gravity feed iron. 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On May 20, 2012, at 23:39, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> And what is it with the spitting & dripping?
> 
> Just had a revelation--they spit and drip before they get hot enough to 
> generate steam, and, as they keep shutting off, then they have to keep 
> heating up again.
> 
> 
> I have sometimes thought about getting a gravity-fed iron, with a separate 
> water supply, like we used in professional theater costume shops, but you 
> have to have a place to hang the water supply, and they aren't, therefore, 
> portable.
> 
> 
> I'm actually okay with the Oreck that my husband bought. I sits on a base, 
> and you can detach the cord for short free-hand steaming jobs. It does, 
> though, also have the annoying auto shut off feature.
> 
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Sharon Collier 
> To: 'Historical Costume' 
> Sent: Sun, May 20, 2012 6:27 pm
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] %$#&* irons!
> 
> 
> Maybe Amazon Drygoods.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 1:21 PM
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] %$#&* irons!
> 
> Fran complained about modern irons.
> 
> Amen, Sistah!   Not to mention the handles that have a sharp seam 
> EXACTLY where it will chafe a sore spot onto your thumb if you need to iron
> for longer than it takes to touch up a permapress blouse you forgot in the
> dryer overnight.  And what is it with the spitting & dripping?  
> They had that solved back in the 70s!  I wouldn't mind the inactivity
> cut-off, if you could disable it for sewing sessions.  The last thing in the
> world I need is an iron that cools off during a seam!
> 
> Mary, the equally exasperated
> 
> p.s.  I seem to recall a catalog with some old-fashioned irons in it --
> maybe Vermont Country Store?  I'll have to go look.
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Brassiere assistance sought

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Unsure about forums but www.foundationsrevealed.com has sections in bra making 
and construction but it is a membership site with a few beginning articles for 
free. 

Also www.patternschool.com has some good articles. It's based with swimsuits 
and stretch patterning but also has helpful info on bra construction. 

Hope those help!

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 13, 2012, at 12:22, Cactus  wrote:

> custom-b...@yahoogroups.com  is run by Don McCunn.  He is great on custom 
> pattern drafting and also has online classes and videos.  I have been a 
> member of all his groups for several years now.
> 
> 
> Cactus
> Apache Junction, AZ
>   
> 
> 
> 
> From: "lili...@earthlink.net" 
> To: h-cost...@indra.com 
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 8:12 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Brassiere assistance sought
> 
> Does anyone know of a trustworthy bra building e-mail list? Some of my 
> searches turn up rather... uh... inappropriately salacious boards.
> 
> I would also like to find some of the materials needed to fix some bras or 
> build new ones from scratch. I am in the US.
> 
> Thanks
> Lilinah
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments book

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

While I appreciate the details and discussing the exhibit and book, can we 
please refrain from replying only to say "please add my name to the list?"

If I recall, Astrida has said that once the details regarding purchasing the 
book are settled, they will be posted on here for all to know. Perhaps a quick 
private email to Astirda if you wish to e added to the list would've better 
suffice rather than fill our inboxes? Thanks! 

Michael Deibert
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 4, 2013, at 18:15, Kimberly Prack  wrote:

> Please add my name to your list as well.  Kimberly 
> wageman-prackkpr...@hotmail.com
>> To: h-cost...@indra.com
>> From: fyneha...@aol.com
>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 16:47:01 -0500
>> Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments book
>> 
>> 
>> Dear Astrida,
>> 
>> Please add my name to your book list as well.
>> 
>> Donna Scarfe
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: h-costume-request 
>> To: h-costume 
>> Sent: Mon, Feb 4, 2013 1:01 pm
>> Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 12, Issue 26
>> 
>> 
>> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>   1. Re: checking on a merchant (llwa...@juno.com)
>>   2. Re: costume exhibit book (Astrida Schaeffer)
>>   3. Re: costume exhibit book (R Lloyd Mitchell)
>>   4. Re: costume exhibit book (Charlene & Paul Roberts)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 14:00:45 GMT
>> From: "llwa...@juno.com" 
>> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] checking on a merchant
>> Message-ID: <20130204.080045.1314...@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>> 
>>> Um, all you gave was the main page for the site.  What is the
>>> shoe style's name so it can be found?
>>> 
>>> -RC
>> 
>> 
>> Sorry about that -- I'm leaning toward the Connie.  The heel style on the 
>> Cheri 
>> is a closer match, but I'd have to get it redyed leather-brown since it 
>> doesn't 
>> come in natural.  (And it's a left/right shoe; straight last is more 
>> appropriate 
>> for this outfit.)
>> 
>> Leah
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 09:12:17 -0500
>> From: Astrida Schaeffer 
>> To: Historical Costume 
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume exhibit book
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> 
>> Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Design up through March 22 in Durham 
>> NH, 
>> website is www.izaak.unh.edu/museum. I'd hoped to put up links to more 
>> photos 
>> than that site has by last Friday but got swamped; it's on my to do list for 
>> today and will post here when it's up. In the meantime, I do have some 
>> photos up 
>> on my professional FB page, SchaefferArts Costume Exhibition & Care if 
>> anyone 
>> wants a look.
>> 
>> Also, I have been making a list of everyone who's wanted to go on the 
>> notification list for when the book does finally come out, so if I haven't 
>> individually acknowledged you, never fear!
>> 
>> Astrida
>> 
>> On Feb 3, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Wicked Frau  wrote:
>> 
>>> Drat - I missed it...what exhibit?
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey <
>>> mary.d...@pierocarey.info> wrote:
>>> 
 me! Me!
 put me on the list, too!
 
 Mary Piero Carey
 __**_
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costume
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> -Sg-
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 09:47:48 -0500
>> From: R Lloyd Mitchell 
>> To: Historical Costume 
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume exhibit book
>> Message-ID:
>>
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> I likewise would like to be on the Book list. I spend summers in Dunbarton, 
>> my 
>> home town. Always interested  in what is going on at UNH.
>> Kathleen mitchell
>> 
>> 
>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
>> Astrida Schaeffer [astr...@schaefferarts.com]
>> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 9:12 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume exhibit book
>> 
>> Embellishments: Constructing Vi

Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Unfortunately I'm still settling in after moving into my own place and getting 
things set up - not to mention having little spare time. I do have some 
unfinished projects I really should work on: a hand sewn kilt that just needs 
the lining; a français that needs things stitched down, sleeves added and 
trimmed; plus a few others that are ready to start. 

I always enjoy following what other people are seeing, even though it makes me 
want to add to my "wish list!"

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 31, 2013, at 16:39, Cin  wrote:

> I'm woefully under-inspired by my half-completed ragtime ballgown.  So
> under-inspired that I have my nose in the Cosimo di Medici book (Moda
> Italia #2).
> Glad of a change of topic,
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> cinbar...@gmail.com
> 
>> At 11:19 31/03/2013, you wrote:
> 
>>> Now, on to the historical costuming side and not Fran's over inflated ego,
>>> what is everyone working on?  Anyone else doing the Historical Fortnightly?
>>> 
>>> -Isabella
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Another huge factor is whether you'd musicians are they rehearsing in their 
corsets or just wearing them for performances? It is fully capable to sing of 
play an instrument corseted but they MUST rehearse and practice doing so. 

That aside, elastic panels would help, 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 21, 2013, at 3:04, Maggie Koenig  wrote:
> 
> I've costumed singers and dancers before and if you take their chest 
> measurements with them at rest and them at a full breath there can be a 
> rather large difference. Their corsets are likely made for a resting breath 
> measurement so it is restricting them from taking as deep a breath as they 
> are used to when they play. Actual performers in the Victorian era were 
> corseted their entire lives and were trained to get the needed deep breaths 
> while corseted. 
> 
> What you will need to do is either find a dress style that can work without 
> the corset or you will want to create a corset that incorporates elastic 
> panels and/or elastic instead of a woven lacing string. The elastic will 
> stretch as they breath and move allowing them their full range. 
> 
> Maggie Koenig
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2013, at 1:58 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I get told by musicians that they can't breathe - wind players and singers
>> can't get enough breath.
>> Cheers,
>> Aylwen
>> 
>> 
>>> On 21 October 2013 16:42, Kim Baird  wrote:
>>> 
>>> It's perfectly possible to sit in a Victorian corset. Victorians did it all
>>> the time. It does have to fit correctly, however.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
>>> Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
>>> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 11:55 PM
>>> To: Historical Costume
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
>>> 
>>> I'm thinking about Victorian fashion here. Are there any pictures of women
>>> sitting down playing music? I've seen women corsetted when standing up
>>> playing the violin, but how did they manage playing the piano? Or are my
>>> musicians complaining too much?
>>> I'm right at the beginning in my research so far.
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Aylwen
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 21 October 2013 15:48, Elizabeth Jones
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Hi Aylwen,
 What have you tried so far? If we know what's already been tried there
 won't need to be any re-inventing of the wheel. For anything pre-1600
 you are fairly safe to skip boning for anyone who isn't extremely high
 fashion (and musicians paid to perform for a ball definitely weren't
 high fashion) Elizabeth
 
 On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
  wrote:
> Dear Friends
> Our dance group prides itself on wearing historically correct gowns
> and undergarments for our dance performances, but it is not
> comfortable for
 our
> pianist and other musicians. I am exploring ways I can bone the
> bodices
 of
> the gowns and still give sitting-down musicians breathing space -
> but
 still
> have the garments look close-to-accurate. Can anyone offer me any
>>> advice?
> We costume from 1450 through to 1900 - all styles along the way.
> Many thanks,
> Aylwen
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
>>> *
>>> *
>>> *
>>> *
>>> 
>>> *Jane Austen Festival Australia  *
>>> *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy<
>>> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/>
>>> *
>>> *John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book
>>> series
>>> *
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> 
>> *Jane Austen Festival Australia  *
>> *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
>> *
>> *John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book
>> series
>> *
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

Sorry, hit the send button too soon! 

Elastic panels could help bit perhaps adapting the style would be better. A 
mesh or sports corset might provide enough give while also providing enough 
support for the period. 

Lastly, would be a style that would not need a corset. Perhaps the light boning 
of the dress bodice would be enough? 

Michael Deibert
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 21, 2013, at 3:04, Maggie Koenig  wrote:
> 
> I've costumed singers and dancers before and if you take their chest 
> measurements with them at rest and them at a full breath there can be a 
> rather large difference. Their corsets are likely made for a resting breath 
> measurement so it is restricting them from taking as deep a breath as they 
> are used to when they play. Actual performers in the Victorian era were 
> corseted their entire lives and were trained to get the needed deep breaths 
> while corseted. 
> 
> What you will need to do is either find a dress style that can work without 
> the corset or you will want to create a corset that incorporates elastic 
> panels and/or elastic instead of a woven lacing string. The elastic will 
> stretch as they breath and move allowing them their full range. 
> 
> Maggie Koenig
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2013, at 1:58 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I get told by musicians that they can't breathe - wind players and singers
>> can't get enough breath.
>> Cheers,
>> Aylwen
>> 
>> 
>>> On 21 October 2013 16:42, Kim Baird  wrote:
>>> 
>>> It's perfectly possible to sit in a Victorian corset. Victorians did it all
>>> the time. It does have to fit correctly, however.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
>>> Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
>>> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 11:55 PM
>>> To: Historical Costume
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
>>> 
>>> I'm thinking about Victorian fashion here. Are there any pictures of women
>>> sitting down playing music? I've seen women corsetted when standing up
>>> playing the violin, but how did they manage playing the piano? Or are my
>>> musicians complaining too much?
>>> I'm right at the beginning in my research so far.
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Aylwen
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 21 October 2013 15:48, Elizabeth Jones
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Hi Aylwen,
 What have you tried so far? If we know what's already been tried there
 won't need to be any re-inventing of the wheel. For anything pre-1600
 you are fairly safe to skip boning for anyone who isn't extremely high
 fashion (and musicians paid to perform for a ball definitely weren't
 high fashion) Elizabeth
 
 On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
  wrote:
> Dear Friends
> Our dance group prides itself on wearing historically correct gowns
> and undergarments for our dance performances, but it is not
> comfortable for
 our
> pianist and other musicians. I am exploring ways I can bone the
> bodices
 of
> the gowns and still give sitting-down musicians breathing space -
> but
 still
> have the garments look close-to-accurate. Can anyone offer me any
>>> advice?
> We costume from 1450 through to 1900 - all styles along the way.
> Many thanks,
> Aylwen
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
>>> *
>>> *
>>> *
>>> *
>>> 
>>> *Jane Austen Festival Australia  *
>>> *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy<
>>> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/>
>>> *
>>> *John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book
>>> series
>>> *
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden*
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> 
>> *Jane Austen Festival Australia  *
>> *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
>> *
>> *John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book
>> series
>> *
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/l

Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

[michaeljdeib...@gmail.com]

I believe those same patterns have been up for a good couple of years. But yes, 
quite nice to have more men's patterns!

Michael Deibert, NRP
OAS AAS LLS
Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 1, 2016, at 20:25, Marjorie Wilser  wrote:
> 
> Nice that they are doing the men, who are so often neglected when patterns 
> are being sold.
> 
> ==Marjorie 
> 
>> On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Christine Robb  wrote 
>> (in part):
>> 
>> So far they're showing 4:
>> 
>> Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50,  Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60
>> 
>> Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740
>> 
>> Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750
>> 
>> Man's Coat, France, 1790–95
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and
>> whether more patterns are going to become available?
> 
> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume