Try each, settle on whichever produces the better results for you (I'd 
forgotten the N80 was 1/2 stops only). The flash system in the N80 is 
essentially identical to the F100 (as is the metering) apart from the F100's 
selectable exposure stop increments.

-Adam


Glen Tortorella wrote:
> Thank you, Adam, for your detailed commentary.  Also, I thank  
> everyone else who has responded--even the fellow who said I should  
> have bought a Pentax (Dave, I think) :-)
> 
> Adam: I tried dialing-in the -0.7 FEC value you suggest.  It seems  
> the N80 will take only 1/2 increments (-0.5, -1.0, etc.).  I do not  
> see any other way to set it.  Is there something I am missing?  Also,  
> if I am correct about this, would -0.5 be sufficient, or would I be  
> wasting my time?...or is this just another reason to look into an  
> F100 (as you have suggested)?
> 
> Glen
> 
> On Oct 3, 2007, at 9:47 AM, Adam Maas wrote:
> 
>> Glen Tortorella wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Since I have a new, more "advanced" body, the N80, I tried taking
>>> some shots I would have avoided in the past.  The results were  
>>> awful--
>>> not one good shot on the entire role, a miserable 0-for-24 (Kodak
>>> Gold 200).
>>>
>>> In the past, I would avoid two types of shots: 1) indoor shots and 2)
>>> outdoor "high sun" shots in the fair weather months (i.e. during the
>>> hours of about 10:00-4:00).  In doing so, I have assured myself
>>> decent, but not necessarily perfect, results.  Since the N80 has a
>>> better metering system (10-segment) and a pop-up flash that is
>>> supposed to be pretty good, I figured: "let me see what it can do."
>>> As I have said, the results were dreadful.  Here are the main issues.
>>>
>>> 1) Every indoor flash shot showed at least moderate spotlight/wash-
>>> out effect of the subject (people).
>> Dial in -0.7 stops of Flash exposure compensation when shooting  
>> people with Nikon flashes (including the popup). Leave this  
>> permanently dialed in.
>>
>>> 2) On the outdoor "high sun" shots, the camera turned a seemingly
>>> minor shadows (through the viewfinder) on the subject's face into a
>>> black blobs that covered almost all of the subject's face.
>> Add flash, leave the -0.7 stops of FEC dialed in.
>>
>>> 3) When taking indoor shots with the flash, I would meter (10-
>>> segment) something like 1/30 or 1/45 or perhaps 1/60 at, say, f2.
>>> With the flash powered up, I do not think it ever metered
>>> differently.  For example, 1/30 at f/2 was still 1/30 at f/2 with the
>>> flash enabled.  Is this correct, or is there something wrong with my
>>> camera?
>> That is correct, the N80 will attempt to balance the exposure if it  
>> can get the shutter between 1/125 and 1/30 or so, with a slight  
>> bias towards the flash illumination (hence the FEC I recommend). If  
>> you want a pure flash exposure, shoot in manual.
>>
>>
>>> 4) The one decent shot in the whole role--an indoor shot using only
>>> available light...go figure?--was spoiled by some sort of small speck
>>> on the subject's face.  I usually keep my filter free of dust, etc.
>>> Could this speck have appeared as a result of the cheap processing I
>>> used (Wal-Mart C-41)?
>> Probably. Check your negs.
>>
>>> I know that using a fill flash may have alleviated the problem
>>> expressed in issue number 2, but, since I have had my subjects turn a
>>> bit ghastly by using the flash, I am hesitant to use it indoors or
>>> outdoors.  I would appreciate any advice or commentary (or even pep
>>> talk), as I am pretty down about this.  What good is a more
>>> "advanced" camera if I cannot even come remotely close to
>>> satisfactory results on the more difficult shots (i.e. indoor, "high
>>> sun," etc.)?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Glen
>>>
>>>
>> Fill flash is your friend, but remember direct flash always looks a  
>> bit ghastly. A (cheap) SB-24 and an SC-17 or SC-28 cord will get  
>> the flash off-camera with full TTL, and is a much better option.
>>
>> -Adam
>>
>>
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