No, I'm not really familiar with Pentax's TTL flash system in practical use (I know the capabilities on paper only). I mostly use Auto flash with my Nikon SB's on all my cameras.
-Adam Steve Desjardins wrote: > Q: Do you know of a similar "permanent" compensation value for Pentax? > >>>> Adam Maas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 10/3/2007 9:47 AM >>> > Glen Tortorella wrote: >> Hi all, >> >> Since I have a new, more "advanced" body, the N80, I tried taking >> some shots I would have avoided in the past. The results were > awful-- >> not one good shot on the entire role, a miserable 0-for-24 (Kodak >> Gold 200). >> >> In the past, I would avoid two types of shots: 1) indoor shots and 2) > >> outdoor "high sun" shots in the fair weather months (i.e. during the > >> hours of about 10:00-4:00). In doing so, I have assured myself >> decent, but not necessarily perfect, results. Since the N80 has a >> better metering system (10-segment) and a pop-up flash that is >> supposed to be pretty good, I figured: "let me see what it can do." > >> As I have said, the results were dreadful. Here are the main > issues. >> 1) Every indoor flash shot showed at least moderate spotlight/wash- >> out effect of the subject (people). > > Dial in -0.7 stops of Flash exposure compensation when shooting people > with Nikon flashes (including the popup). Leave this permanently dialed > in. > >> 2) On the outdoor "high sun" shots, the camera turned a seemingly >> minor shadows (through the viewfinder) on the subject's face into a > >> black blobs that covered almost all of the subject's face. > > Add flash, leave the -0.7 stops of FEC dialed in. > >> 3) When taking indoor shots with the flash, I would meter (10- >> segment) something like 1/30 or 1/45 or perhaps 1/60 at, say, f2. >> With the flash powered up, I do not think it ever metered >> differently. For example, 1/30 at f/2 was still 1/30 at f/2 with the > >> flash enabled. Is this correct, or is there something wrong with my > >> camera? > > That is correct, the N80 will attempt to balance the exposure if it can > get the shutter between 1/125 and 1/30 or so, with a slight bias towards > the flash illumination (hence the FEC I recommend). If you want a pure > flash exposure, shoot in manual. > > >> 4) The one decent shot in the whole role--an indoor shot using only > >> available light...go figure?--was spoiled by some sort of small speck > >> on the subject's face. I usually keep my filter free of dust, etc. > >> Could this speck have appeared as a result of the cheap processing I > >> used (Wal-Mart C-41)? > > Probably. Check your negs. > >> I know that using a fill flash may have alleviated the problem >> expressed in issue number 2, but, since I have had my subjects turn a > >> bit ghastly by using the flash, I am hesitant to use it indoors or >> outdoors. I would appreciate any advice or commentary (or even pep > >> talk), as I am pretty down about this. What good is a more >> "advanced" camera if I cannot even come remotely close to >> satisfactory results on the more difficult shots (i.e. indoor, "high > >> sun," etc.)? >> >> Thanks, >> Glen >> >> > > Fill flash is your friend, but remember direct flash always looks a bit > ghastly. A (cheap) SB-24 and an SC-17 or SC-28 cord will get the flash > off-camera with full TTL, and is a much better option. > > -Adam > > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
