Interesting data from (finally) reading the (duh) data sheet:

* CC is heatproof "up to" 180•F. 150 seems not to be a problem. So much for the 
desert heat.
* Declared coverage of 216 sq. ft./gallon, PER SIDE. I was using about 48 
linear feet of 6" hinges, or 96 ft.^2 for two yurts, both sides, or a little 
less than half a gallon. I used a little less than a quart all up. So, prior 
theory correct: insufficient coverage.
* 15 minutes' dry time called for. I was probably running 6-8 minutes. Second 
explanation. PS surfaces can be attached up to 2 hours after application. 
Plenty of head room there.

So let that be a warning to others: use plenty, and give it plenty of time to 
dry. On to next year!

Cheers,
Steve

On Sep 8, 2013, at 2:38 PM, Jeremy Shaw <[email protected]> wrote:

> I believe that is HH-66. H-66 is a readily biodegradable, anionic, phosphate 
> polyether ester surfactant used a solubilizer for surfactants into 
> low/moderately built detergents. HH-66 Vinyl Cement is a superior quality, 
> fast drying adhesive. It is used extensively for bonding vinyl coated and 
> vinyl laminated fabrics to themselves or to various materials.
> 
> If I do more building or repairs, I'll definitely give the HH-66 a shot.
> 
> - jeremy
> 
> 
> On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 4:27 PM, Gavin Harkness <[email protected]> wrote:
> If I were to use CC and vinyl, I'd be following Tom's instructions at
> 
> http://yostwerks.com/
> 
> I know he's only talking about vinyl to vinyl, but his instructions a very 
> clear.  I've built one of his kayaks and had no problems.  Although I've have 
> no other experience in using CC, I'd personally stick to using H-66.
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, 5 September 2013 07:54:49 UTC+1, Steve Upstill (Swifty) wrote:
> All I can say is that my experience of the vinyl-contact cement was very 
> different. I did all the work up front in the expectation of having a 
> years-long solution, only to have my hinges fail: the vinyl simply pulled 
> loose in the heat of the Playa (some places the vinyl just casually lifted as 
> if there was no adhesive there in at all), with a tacky substance on both 
> surfaces that made me wonder how it could have healed at all. Out there, I 
> patched like mad with bifi, and now I'm looking at doing the whole laborious 
> job over again next year. Crap.
> 
> So what went wrong? I have three theories:
> 
> 1) assembly problems, i.e., I put the CC on too thickly, or not thickly 
> enough, or I didn't wait long enough for it to dry, or too long
> 2) the heat was just too much for it
> 3) because I laid the vinyl on when the panels were lying on the ground and 
> abutting, actually folding them over the rest of the way put too much tension 
> on the hinge. I did it fairly tight because I wanted some tension in the 
> structure.
> 
> If anybody has any information that would help me figure out which theory is 
> correct, I'd be enormously grateful. Could others chime in with their 
> experience? If I'm the only one with failed hinges, that pretty much disposes 
> of theory #2. Also, did people tape over the vinyl with aluminum tape? I'm 
> thinking that under theory #2, the shiny stuff would go a long way to keeping 
> the heat down.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve Upstill
> 
> On Sep 4, 2013, at 7:47 PM, Jeremy Shaw <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> I built two 6' folding stretch hexayurts this year. One was a traditional 
>> design with camp danger bifi hinges. The other used contact cement, vinyl, 
>> and velcro.
>> 
>> The contact cement+vinyl+velcro solution definitely required more work up 
>> front. But the pay off on the playa was huge! It went up and down so much 
>> faster. And, it is already ready to go back up again. There is no per-use 
>> consumeables and nothing that has to be cleaned off before the next use.
>> 
>> I have a bunch of video and other details on the build process that I hope 
>> to upload 'some day' but the short version is, DO IT!
>> 
>> - jeremy
>> 
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