Adam Maas wrote: > AlexG wrote: > > >> Scott, >> >> If you're serious about dropping 30 lbs by end of summer, I'd like to >> hop on your bandwagon. I'm being told I look good (over two years went >> > >from 240lbs to 195. Big change, but I'm still not happy. Still a BFF > >> (big fat f***). I wanna hit 150, that way my muscles will actually >> show instead of being concealed in a layer of lard. >> >> I think we can all motivate each other by posting progress pics and >> info, as well as tips and info on workout programs and all that stuff. >> I'm into road biking myself. Bike cost ~1.6K, but that's only because >> I splurged on the frame.... www.habcycles.com. The rest is stuff I >> bought from different spots. Saved tons of money and got much better >> hear for the price. >> >> If I were doing it all again, I'd have gone friction shifting all the >> way. To hell with indexing. I HATE it. It stinks. requires constant >> adjustments and the benefits are not worth it, especially cost >> factored in, not to mention friction era parts last longer..... >> >> My advice as far as buying a bike, piece it together. 60-130 bucks for >> a nice Al frame and you're good to go. Gear 'too heavy'? Drink less >> beer and drop poundage for free! It'll make a bigger difference than >> shaving a few grams off something stupid, like a "lightweight race >> chain" or "magnesium race-light derailleur limit screws!!11" >> >> Anyway, I hope we can all sign on for this, (set goal, set plan, and >> stick to it by reporting progress). Who's in? >> >> >> >> > > I'm working on the weight loss too. Currently approx 280lb (I'm a BIG > guy) and my goal is 250 by the end of september. Doing about 90km of > commuting a week along with distance rides on the weekend, mostly on a > singlespeed. > > Note that piecing together a bike is only a good idea if you know > exactly what you're doing. Generally the big companies get better breaks > on parts than you do, so a decent bike normally costs less than a pieced > together one unless you are an eBay wiz. Generally the low-end race spec > is the best compromise between weight, performance and durability ( > Shimano 105 or Campy Veloce on road bikes, Shimano LX or SRAM x.9 on > MTB's), upgrading from there only gets lower weights and occasionally a > few nifty features. Never, ever, ever buy the top-end cassettes > though(XTR, Dura-Ace, Record), they are very low-mileage lightweight > designs for race use only. And Indexing shouldn't require constant > attention with good parts. It's fiddly while the cables stretch but once > everything's broken it you're good for a while. If your bike needs > constant tuning, you've got either a parts mismatch or another issue > (chainline, bent derailleur or some such) > > -Adam > > > > > I'm game. I'll take a "before" picture tomorrow morning right after I weigh myself. All this gear talk has the enablement bones rattling. So that's my motivation - lose the weight and get a new bike. I'd like to eventually get down to 175-180ish. That was my weight in the service (11 years ago!) and I was pleased with it. Getting much lighter than that with my frame would take some serious work, which I'm most likely not willing to do.
-- Scott Loveless www.twosixteen.com -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
