1. Set the camera on a tripod, point it at a blank, white wall at night.
2. Turn on one light set beside the camera such that it illuminates the wall evenly.
3. Measure the wall using a good incident light meter set at ISO 100.
4. Adjust the distance from the light to the wall so that the meter reads a standard f/stop and standard shutter speed.
5. Set the camera' shutter and lens aperture to the meter's reading.
6. Adjust the ISO so that the needle centers.
7. This is the new proper ISO setting for ISO 100 film (nominally).
8. Note the number of fractional stops delta from ISO 100. This is now the number of stops compensation that one must make for any ISO film. For example:
If the ISO setting for ISO 100 film is ISO 50, this is one stop. e.g.:
For ISO 50 film, use ISO 25 on the camera. For ISO 100 film, use ISO 50 on the camera. (as measured) For ISO 200 film, use ISO 100 on the camera. For ISO 400 film, use ISO 200 on the camera. For ISO 800 film, use ISO 400 on the camera. For ISO 1600 film, use ISO 800 on the camera.
FYI, You can adjust the exposure compensation instead, as it's the same thing. You can then just use the camera set at this exposure comp.
The above should be good enough for all practical purposes.
Somebody check me on this, it's been a long week.
Regards, Bob... ------------------------------------------------ "A picture is worth a thousand words, but it uses up three thousand times the memory."
From: "Shel Belinkoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Just wondering how difficult it is to replace the focusing screen in an MX.
Is it as easy as changing screens in the LX. And about the metering when
that's done, will the MX meter read over or under "normal?" What about
with the newer, brighter LX screens?
