Yes, print (negative) film is probably the best choice when you're
concerned about range. However I generally shoot transparency film,
because I don't want to put myself in the hands of a lab tech when it
comes to nailing the color, and I don't want a stack of 4x6 prints. But
negative film is a good choice when you're dealing with extremes. If
you're shooting only the white blossoms and the gray foliage, you should
be fine with either transparency film or negative film.
Paul
Dan Scott wrote:
>
> I'll do that. In case like this, I'd be best off shooting with a print
> film, correct? Doesn't print film have a wider exposure range (but less
> density) than slide film?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Scott
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> >Two stops over a spot meter reading of the white area only should give
> >you white with subtle details. But for an important shot like that I
> >would bracket from about 2 1/2 over to 1 1/2 over if you're not real
> >familiar with the highlight characteristics of the film you're using. I
> >shot a Snow Fountain Weeping Cherry Tree that was in blossom yesterday.
> >The blossoms dominated the frame, but there was some grass in the
> >foreground and some yellow daffodils and tulips under the tree. The
> >blossoms are snow white, of course. I used Ektachrome 100VS and exposed
> >two stops over, which gave me great blossoms. I also exposed some frames
> >1 and 1 1/2 over. The blossoms in the 1 over frames were definitely too
> >gray. In the 1 1/2 over frames the blossoms were acceptable but slightly
> >dull, however the grass in the foreground was, of course, more saturated
> >than in the 2 over frames. I haven't looked at them all with a loupe
> >yet, but the 2 over exposures appear to be the best overall.
> >
> >Dan Scott wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Paul,
> >>
> >> Is this white "white with subtle details" or white as in blown out
> >> highlights? My reason for asking is Prickly Poppies (large white blossoms
> >> on gray grey foliage) are fixing to be in season here, and I'd like to get
> >> good detail in the blossoms.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Dan Scott
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >> >Meters think everything is 18% gray. So, yes, if you want white to look
> >> >white, you add two stops more exposure to the meter reading you get on a
> >> >white subject. If you want black to look black, you subtract
> >> >approximately two stops from the meter reading you get on a black
> >> >object. You can see what the ambient light is by reading an 18% gray
> >> >card with the meter. It should approximate your calculated exposures. In
> >> >other words the reading from the white dress plus two stops should be
> >> >close to the reading you take on the gray card in the same light (with
> >> >the gray card held at the same angle to the light source as the white
> >>dress).
> >> >Paul
> >>
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