I'll do that. In case like this, I'd be best off shooting with a print
film, correct? Doesn't print film have a wider exposure range (but less
density) than slide film?

Thanks,
Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


>Two stops over a spot meter reading of the white area only should give
>you white with subtle details. But for an important shot like that I
>would bracket from about 2 1/2 over to 1 1/2 over if you're not real
>familiar with the highlight characteristics of the film you're using. I
>shot a Snow Fountain Weeping Cherry Tree that was in blossom yesterday.
>The blossoms dominated the frame, but there was some grass in the
>foreground and some yellow daffodils and tulips under the tree. The
>blossoms are snow white, of course. I used Ektachrome 100VS and exposed
>two stops over, which gave me great blossoms. I also exposed some frames
>1 and 1 1/2 over. The blossoms in the 1 over frames were definitely too
>gray. In the 1 1/2 over frames the blossoms were acceptable but slightly
>dull, however the grass in the foreground was, of course, more saturated
>than in the 2 over frames. I haven't looked at them all with a loupe
>yet, but the 2 over exposures appear to be the best overall.
>
>Dan Scott wrote:
>>
>> Hi Paul,
>>
>> Is this white "white with subtle details" or white as in blown out
>> highlights? My reason for asking is Prickly Poppies (large white blossoms
>> on gray grey foliage) are fixing to be in season here, and I'd like to get
>> good detail in the blossoms.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dan Scott
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> >Meters think everything is 18% gray. So, yes, if you want white to look
>> >white, you add two stops more exposure to the meter reading you get on a
>> >white subject. If you want black to look black, you subtract
>> >approximately two stops from the meter reading you get on a black
>> >object. You can see what the ambient light is by reading an 18% gray
>> >card with the meter. It should approximate your calculated exposures. In
>> >other words the reading from the white dress plus two stops should be
>> >close to the reading you take on the gray card in the same light (with
>> >the gray card held at the same angle to the light source as the white
>>dress).
>> >Paul
>>
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