As I understand it, nankeen was a pale yellow/pale brownish cotton which was 
originally from naturally colored cotton and then became a term for a sturdy 
cotton dyed a buff yellow in imitation of the Chinese original 
(nankeen=nanking). I have never heard it refered to as being a special weave 
(like twill) so I have assumed that it is just a sturdy plain weave cotton in a 
pale yellow. I'd love to know if anyone else has more specific information.   
Karen     

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Emily Gilbert <emchantm...@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-cost...@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:37:47 -0600

Hello all,

I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay.  It 
says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and 
that nankeen is "unlike any fabric available in today's market", but 
doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead.  Does anyone 
know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation?

Thanks!
Emily
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