Looks like it might just be yellow cloth:

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nankeen, n. and adj.
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*Pronunciation:*  Brit. /nanˈkiːn/ , /naŋˈkiːn/ , U.S. /nænˈkin/
*Forms:*  17 *nankein*, 17–18 *nanquin*, 17– *nankeen*, 17– *nankin*, 18 *
namking* (*U.S.*), 19– *nanking*. Also with capital initial.(Show
Less)<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964#>
*Etymology:*  < *Nankin* , former spelling of the name of the city of *
Nanking* (see Nanking
n.<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/view/Entry/245052#eid12289719>);
the form *nankeen* is probably after -een
suffix1<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/view/Entry/59634#eid5749135>.
Compare French*nankin* , noun (1760 denoting a type of cotton fabric,
generally of a yellow colour, 1842 denoting a pale yellow colour) and
adjective (1804 in sense ‘of a pale yellow colour’), Dutch *nankin* , *
nanking* , noun (mid 19th cent.), German *Nanking* .

The name of the city, in the form *Lankin* or *Lanquin* (probably via
Portuguese), was applied to a kind of silk in the 17th cent.: see further
H. Yule and A. C. Burnell *Hobson-Jobson* (1886), s.v. *Nanking*.
(Show 
Less)<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964#>
  *A.* n.
 *I.* A kind of cloth; senses relating to this.
 *1.*
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 *a.* A kind of pale yellowish cloth, originally made at Nanking from a
yellow variety of cotton, but subsequently manufactured from ordinary
cotton which is then dyed; more fully nankeen cloth. Also in*pl.*: a piece
or variety of this cloth. Now chiefly *hist.*In some 18th-cent. uses perh.
referring to a variety of unbleached silk rather than cotton.
 *c*1700    *Acct. of Sale of India
Silks<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* 1/2   Damask Nankeens 403, at 5*l*.
1755    in F. W. Fairholt *Satirical Songs & Poems on
Costume<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* (1849) 239   Make his breeches of nankein, Most like nature, most like
skin.
1781    A. Adams in *Familiar
Lett.<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* (1876) 402   There are some articles, which come from India,‥Bengals,
nankeens, Persian silk.
*c*1809    F. Buchanan in M. Martin *Eastern
India<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* (1838) III. 244   Wool having the colour of nankeen cloth.
1878    J. H. Gray
*China<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* III. xxiii. 143   The cloth called nankin, generally written nankeen, is
of the greatest durability.
1891    *Cent. 
Mag.<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* Mar. 735   The middle and lower half had been supplanted by another vest
and trousers of faded nankeen.
1936    *Jrnl. Southern
Hist.<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* *2* 412   Translated, it runs like this, ‘Oh, you American knave dressed
in nankeen—You steal loaves of bread for Mister d'Quin!’
1957    P. White
*Voss<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* xi. 318   Many a citizen, walking at the water's edge, in good nankeen or
new merino, did entertain secret hopes.
1997    T. Clark *Empire of
Skin<http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964>
* ii. 79   The long overland trek toting skins of sea otters‥to exchange
for‥nankeens and tea.

On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 11:37 AM, Emily Gilbert <emchantm...@gmail.com>wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay.  It says
> that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that
> nankeen is "unlike any fabric available in today's market", but doesn't
> offer any suggestions as to what to use instead.  Does anyone know what
> kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation?
>
> Thanks!
> Emily
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>



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