I've never seen a garment like this ( or I've never noticed one like it). It sure makes the male figure look broad shoulders and narrow of waist. Very upright and proud model. What do you call this garment and what period is it? Italian maybe?
Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine > From: astr...@schaefferarts.com > Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2011 12:57:38 -0500 > To: h-cost...@indra.com > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer > > You know, Zuzana, a thought-- > > Looking at your photos again, it strikes me that it almost looks like two > different fabrics, because the body is on the straight grain and the sleeves > are on the bias, and they reflect light differently. I always hesitate to put > thoughts into long-ago minds, but it doesn't seem unlikely to me that someone > would have seen a similar effect and decided to take the next step, actually > using a different color. > > Astrida > > On Dec 6, 2011, at 5:11 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > I checked all I could find out (year 1999 mostly, then something from > > 2000), but didn't find an answer to what I'm searching for. You were > > discussing bit different things. Maybe I just missed some important post? > > So were the "grandes assiettes" sleeves pictured in one colour, and the > > body in another, one garment? I read the Adrien Harmand's book and it semms > > she thinks it was one garment. > > > > Do you have this monograph from Musee de Tissus? How it's called? Where can > > I get it? I am very curious about the theory of the under "vest". I've done > > various pourpoints of this style, but as I didn't find any info on how the > > chest wast stuffed, I just put two small cushions on either side of the > > chest, hidden by the lining, which made the large chest in the end. This > > technique works well for quilted garments, but not so well for anything > > without stuffing, because the soft fabric will dip in at the front opening. > > See my last "charles de Blois" attempt here: > > http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150367778803721.352533.294387883720&type=3 > > > > Just one observation I have to follow on some of the 12 year old > > discussions - I think the grande assiette sleeve is easy to construct once > > you know how. You can do any form of sleeve, whether tight fitting, bag, or > > wide at the bottom. I will be writing a detailed tutorial on how to do this > > once I get to it. Would you folks be interested? > > > > Zuzana > > > > _________________________ > > www.sartor.cz > > > > > > --- On Tue, 12/6/11, Cin <cinbar...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > >> From: Cin <cinbar...@gmail.com> > >> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer > >> To: "Historical Costume" <h-cost...@indra.com> > >> Date: Tuesday, December 6, 2011, 1:56 AM > >> In a monograph published by the Musee > >> des Tissus (Lyons), the Charles > >> de Blois pourpoint is conjectured to be worn over a > >> vest-like thing > >> that held all the stuffing for the fashionable high puff > >> chest. This > >> particular example has the sleeves & body of the gament > >> all in the > >> same fabric. > >> We discussed this pourpoint, the account books from the > >> Dukes of > >> Lorraine, Jeanne d'Arc & the records from her > >> trial waaay-back. Check > >> the h-cost archives. > >> --cin > >> Cynthia Barnes > >> cinbar...@gmail.com > >> > >> > >> > >> On Sat, Dec 3, 2011 at 4:54 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova <zkraemer...@yahoo.com> > >> wrote: > >>> Hi there, > >>> > >>> I am searching for evidence for the grandes assiettes > >> sleeve construction from the 14th and 15th centuries, the > >> type with two coloured garment - sleeves in one colour, > >> bodice in another. Like this: > >> http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/grande_assiette/Sachsenspiegel_large.jpg > >>> > >>> Do you know whether this was one garment made from two > >> fabrics, or two separate garments, the upper being a > >> vest-sort of thing? I know this is often discussed, but has > >> anyone already found an answer to this question? > >>> > >>> Thanks a lot, > >>> > >>> Zuzana > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> h-costume mailing list > >> h-costume@mail.indra.com > >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
