Elizabeth,
You make some excellent points. I had already planned to have a red (we're
talking turkey red, not a bright cherry red) box pleated ruffle down the CF,
the cuff and (a smaller one) at the neck. That may be enough contrast;
however, I really want to challenge myself with correctly making the double
piping at the waist edge. It may end up that I double pipe with the fashion
fabric; it depends on whether the originally-planned contrast seems to be
enough red to spice up my predominately toast and brown pattern. The dress
will be an English woman's dress, not American, and I know that there were
some differences in fashion styles. (And, since I always wear an apron tied
around my waist, very few people will ever see the contrast piping once I'm
dressed. It will be something *I* know about my dress - like using one real
pearl amongst the good fakes in my Renaissance court outfit.)

Elizabeth, thank you for your input; I know your focus and have often
appreciated and sent others to your website for how-tos and to see how it
looks when it's Done Right. I will keep your message in my references for
when my dress absolutely, positively needs to be perfectly authentic. For my
theatrical focus, I will still keep my options open until the dress is more
complete, maybe by next Christmas time.
LynnD

On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 9:00 PM, Elizabeth Clark <
elizabethstewartcl...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
> If your costuming goal is to have a garment that reflects overall norms for
> the mid-century, then please do use self-fabric piping or corded piping on
> cotton print dresses. It is *by far* the most typical. Mrs Lincoln's gown is
> atypical, even for a high-fashion dress, and should not be used as
> documentation for contrast piping on a cotton print dress.
>
> That doesn't mean, however, that you lose the opportunity to add color
> contrast. Pick up the red with covered buttons (perhaps do little ones, set
> in close groups of three... that's one treatment I've seen on a print dress,
> and it's very effective), add flat bands of red to a cuff (perhaps with more
> buttons), and/or add a belt with a red rosette at the closure. Or, add a red
> ribbon bow at your neckline instead of a brooch. There are lots of ways to
> pull up that red that would be quite normal and typical for a cotton print
> (or wool or silk print) dress, so you'd be both individually stylish *and*
> consistent with decorative dress details for the period.
>
> (Of course, if you have a different costuming goal, don't worry about it!
> Do as you like! Not every use calls for an outfit that stays fully
> consistent with the period.)
>
> Regards,
>
> Elizabeth Clark
>
> The Sewing Academy Main Site
> The Sewing Academy "Historic Clothing Tech Support" Forum
>
>
>
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