If your costuming goal is to have a garment that reflects overall norms for the mid-century, then please do use self-fabric piping or corded piping on cotton print dresses. It is *by far* the most typical. Mrs Lincoln's gown is atypical, even for a high-fashion dress, and should not be used as documentation for contrast piping on a cotton print dress.
That doesn't mean, however, that you lose the opportunity to add color contrast. Pick up the red with covered buttons (perhaps do little ones, set in close groups of three... that's one treatment I've seen on a print dress, and it's very effective), add flat bands of red to a cuff (perhaps with more buttons), and/or add a belt with a red rosette at the closure. Or, add a red ribbon bow at your neckline instead of a brooch. There are lots of ways to pull up that red that would be quite normal and typical for a cotton print (or wool or silk print) dress, so you'd be both individually stylish *and* consistent with decorative dress details for the period. (Of course, if you have a different costuming goal, don't worry about it! Do as you like! Not every use calls for an outfit that stays fully consistent with the period.) Regards, Elizabeth Clark The Sewing Academy Main Site The Sewing Academy "Historic Clothing Tech Support" Forum _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume