It looks like Goa... but this is Sindhudurg

>From Frederick Noronha

PANJIM: It looks like Goa, it's not far from Goa, but it is not Goa.

Sindhudurg, the long sandy stretch along the southern Maharashtra coast, is
keen to pick up where Goa left off. It's now trying hard to build itself as
a tourist destination though it may lack the quaint history of this state
and the east-west mix of Portugal's former colony.

"The natural beauty of Sindhudurg is certainly breath-taking, but there are
other treasures to explore and experience in this land of history -- such as
ancient Maratha forts, hermitages, 'mutts' (religious centres), heritage
properties, (plant) nurseries and diverse animal and bird (life)," says a
new guide to the region just published.

Sindhudurg, just a stone's throw away from the north Goa border at Pernem,
also boasts of green villages, houses of red stone and sloping tiled roofs,
towering roadside trees, a "mouth-watering" seafood cuisine and a wide range
of summer fruit.

Some unusual facts emerge from Dwarkanand D Dicholkar's guide 'Paradise
Sindhudurg'.

For instance, this district is nearly one-and-half times entire Goa.

Languages spoken in the area are not just Marathi, but also the regional
dialect called Malvani -- which some locals see as a mid-way compromise
between Marathi and Konkani, two neighbouring if sometimes conflicting and
competing languages.

Small hotels have come up in the area, including some of which are owned by
local politicians or their associates. In the past, statements emerging from
the Maharashtrian state-capital of Mumbai have voiced an interest in
avoiding the "mistakes" that Goa made while Sindhudurg goes about promoting
its tourism.

Exotic and with a special spicy taste of its own, the Malvani food is not
wholly alien from Goan palates.

For instance Hotel Bamboo, located near Vengurla's State Transport Bus
Stand, promises the visitor 'chamchamit masali tikhle' (mackerel and
pomfret), 'zanzanit kombdi suke' (dry chicken) and 'masaledar kurlya (spicy
crab).

On its menu too are 'kolambi fry' (prawns in Malvani style), 'mori', 'kalva'
and 'tisryache suke' (fish and shell-fish, Malvani style), and even 'kurkurit
bhombil' (the special type of seafood called 'Bombay duck').

One strength of this region is that, unlike Goa, room rates of the
mostly-small hotels still sound reasonable. In Sindhudurg's "cultural
capital" of Kankavli -- along the route of Goa-Bombay buses -- a hotel
offers standard double rooms for Rs 300 per day. 

Adding to the quaint charm of this region, Sindhudurg also has its own
processed food products -- like kokum (sometimes called 'bindna' in Goa)
squash and 'aagal'. This is a sweet or salty digestive drink, taken after
meals, and made from the garcina indica fruit.

It also has bottles of 'jamun' juice, mango pulp and squash and pineapple
squash produced locally.

But unlike Goa, the favourite mango here is not the Mankurad but the Hapus
(Alphonso). "More varieties of fruits are being developed by the Regional
Fruit Research Centre at Vengurla, which attracts tourists to see its
gardens," says the new guide.

Vengurla -- once a prominent commercial centre for Dutch traders and British
rulers -- has its own history. In 1639, Dutchman John Van Tist obtained
permission to set up a Dutch factory. Some people are believed to have fled
Portuguese-ruled Goa to work on Dutch ships.

In 1665, Dutch trader Lindart Johnson erected an "elegant-looking structure"
called the Dutch Wakhar, at the cost of 3000 guilders. "This building
reflects Portuguese, Dutch and local influences," says the new guide book.

It attributes Vengurla's rise in business prosperity to the Dutch. This
place on the Indian west coast got linked with Arabs and Europeans by trade.

Vengurla also has its own "small prototype" of Mumbai's famous Crawford
Market. 

Malvan's fort is a short boat ride from the jetty. In the monsoons, the fort
is completely cut-off from land. Sawantwadi has its own specialty of wooden
toys -- some of which end up in places like Mapusa market -- and also carved
bison horns, and 'ganjifa' handmade traditional playing cards featuring the
ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. 

Other places int he region are Kudal, Devgad and Kankavali. 

More information on the region can be got from websites like
www.konkanmati.com, www.sawantwadi.com, www.malvanimasala.com,
www.sindhudurg.com, and www.konkandarshan.com

There's even one put up in the name of the minister who was only recently in
the news, when made to step-down from the central cabinet by Sena supremo
Bal Thackeray -- www.sureshprabhu.com  

Of course, Goa continues to have some edge because of its image built up
over the years. 

But then, tourism circles here clear fear the growing potential of places
like coastal Maharashtra and southern Kerala, in cutting into Goa's tourism
pie, which has not been growing fast enough to cope with the increasing
number entering the business here.

Goa's image is, not surprisingly, imprinted on the minds of many globally.
In its August 18 issue, 'Business Today' magazine found Goa was one of
India's "ten most global non-corporate brands". 

Goa was well known to 44% respondents from seven mainly-Western countries.
It was only marginally behind the Bollywood giant film industry of India and
Bangalore's software appeal. Most of those who remembered it linked it with
tourism, hippies, the former Portuguese rulers and being an "island".

Kerala was known to 26% of the respondents. "Goa, as it is today, doesn't
need much selling. What it needs is some efforts at making it more
esteemed," commented Business Today.

It said: "Goa is a bit like the tried and tested Maruti 800; relevant but
hardly different; well-known but certainly not esteemed; low-priced and,
therefore, perhaps easily sustainable."

"Unlike the Maruti small car, however, the former Portuguese colony enjoys
tremendous global recall, being more a household name in Stockhold or
Capenhagen than in Surat or Ludhiana. Thanks to the good old rupee, Goa
makes for a cheap, long, sun-kissed, lager filled vacation," it added.
(ENDS)

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