actually, as far as I can tell, I was just using the default Human theme
from Dapper.  How do I tell? (sorry, I usually use KDE on my main
desktop)

~/.themes is empty.  When gnome-theme-manager starts, before it hangs,
"Human" is selected in the list at the left-hand side of the window.

As far as I can tell, the themes installed are pretty vanilla:

: jm 111...; dpkg --get-selections | grep -i theme
edgy-gdm-themes                                 install
gnome-accessibility-themes                      install
gnome-icon-theme                                install
gnome-themes                                    install
gray-theme                                      install
hicolor-icon-theme                              install
human-cursors-theme                             install
human-gtk-theme                                 install
human-icon-theme                                install
human-theme                                     install
industrial-cursor-theme                         install
industrialtango-theme                           install
legacyhuman-theme                               install
outdoors-theme                                  install
resilience-theme                                install
silicon-theme                                   install
tangerine-icon-theme                            install
tango-icon-theme                                install
tango-icon-theme-common                         install
usplash-theme-ubuntu                            install
xcursor-themes                                  install


I can post any files you'd like to examine -- let me know and I'll attach them.

-- 
gnome-theme-manager hangs, stops updating UI
https://launchpad.net/bugs/68578

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