Ok, found the culprit, for some reason LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE was set to
1, apparently, this tells Ubuntu to use the LLVM renderer.  The article
below says this is sometimes set when the GUI does not work correctly or
crashes.  I have been lately been switching between Wayland and Xorg,
and had a couple of crashes in Wayland, so maybe it happened on one of
those occasions.  This is pure speculation on my part.

I found the solution at https://askubuntu.com/questions/908381/desktop-
stuck-on-software-rendering-libgl-always-software-
set?utm_medium=organic&utm_source=google_rich_qa&utm_campaign=google_rich_qa

Basically, type systemctl --user unset-environment LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE
and reboot, then glxinfo and system settings report the correct UHD
renderer is being used ;-)

Not sure if I should close the bug or not, this is a fix but no idea why
LIBGL_ALWAYS_SOFTWARE was set to 1.  I am happy to collaborate if
anybody wants to investigate it, otherwise, I am also happy if somebody
wants to close it.

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1768497

Title:
  Upgrade from 17.10 to 18.04 lost native 3D hardware acceleration for
  intel UHD 620, laptop is XPS 9370

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