Ok, in openoffice the tab (and the option) is called "Drop caps".

1) type some lines of text
2) put the cursor somewhere inside this paragraph
3) Menu "Format > Paragraph", tab "Drop Caps", activate "Display Drop Caps"

Now you see the gray background of the "Initial" or "Drop Cap".

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/778038

Title:
  gray background for "initial" letters

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