looks like i found the real bug.
it's neither compiz nor nautilus, the binary nvidia driver is the bad guy in
this case!
the nvidia driver was computing false DPI (75 x 75) for my monitor.
solution:
using nv as driver and starting x.
xdpyinfo | grep -B1 dot
dimensions: 1600x1200 pixels (363x272 millimeters)
resolution: 112x112 dots per inch
modifying xorg.conf so that it reads
Option "UseEdidDpi" "False"
Option "DPI" "112 x 112"
compiz/nautilus works (since 2 hours so far...).
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crash (can't draw desktop) if desktop effects are enabled
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/335869
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