I use MG Chemicals Penetrating Oil as a de-greaser, along with dish soap and
hot distilled water and a bunch of stiff nylon brushes..any lube goes on
after the hot water runs off clean as indicated by white paper towels laid
under the front of the deck...It usually takes a few repeats of the
process...
My .02 worth...73...Jordan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry" <[email protected]>
To: "thoyer" <[email protected]>
Cc: "Larry Haney" <[email protected]>; "R-390 Mailing List"
<[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2024 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: [R-390] Gear Train Removal
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the WD-40 tip. I find I'm not fond of the residue it leaves
but it definitely will dissolve grease and oil. I'm planning on using an
engine degreaser followed by judicious use of synthetic oil where needed.
I plan to remove the slug racks and transformers before cleaning to avoid
getting any fluid in those. Hopefully it will be enough to get the job
done.
Thanks!
Barry - N4BUQ
I do the "WD40" Bath to clean the gear trains. I get a big can, remove
the RF
deck, Place it over a pan and start spraying. I'll use a tooth brush,
acid
brush, q-tips or whatever needed to help clean the hard to get to areas.
The
WD40 does a good job at breaking up the old grease / lube. Once
everything is
loosened up and turning freely I'll let it sit for a day to let the WD40
drip
off and go back and lubricate the pivot / rotating points. Right or
wrong, I do
not lube the gear teeth. I'll end up using pretty much the whole can.
Just did a 390A for a local guy. Tuning was hard and clunky. After the
above
described treatment it is now very smooth. Owner was very impressed!
TomW3TA
On Tuesday, September 3, 2024 at 12:39:20 AM EDT, Larry Haney
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi all, I've had a bunch with over lubed or incorrectly lubed gears,
tuning racks and cams, and a few under lubed digital readouts, but
fortunately nothing so bad as to seriously impair operation. I guess I've
been lucky. And no worn gears.
Regards, Larry
On Mon, Sep 2, 2024 at 8:16 PM Jim Whartenby via R-390 <
[email protected]> wrote:
I think that the tendency is to over do gear lubrication, not under do
it. The Preliminary R-390 manual says "It must be remembered that over
lubrication can cause more harm then no lubrication." I tend to agree
having bought an R-390A from the late Hank Arney that was so over
greased,
the kc and mc knobs were frozen. A lot of solvent, detergent and
denatured
alcohol using an acid brush mounted on a dowel to get deep into the gear
works finally freed the binding. There was no need to do a complete
teardown.
Our brother collectors of clocks do not lube gear teeth, just pivot
points, and sparingly. The thought is that grease attracts dust and dirt
which does more harm then good. In the half dozen R-390A I have
reworked,
I have yet to find a worn gear. Has anyone?
YMMV,
Jim
Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.
Murphy
On Monday, September 2, 2024 at 05:55:29 PM CDT, Barry <
[email protected]> wrote:
While I have the RF Deck out, I'm going to clean and lubricate the
gears,
rollers, etc. Reading the manual, apparently the from "apron" of the
gear
train can be removed without all that much difficulty. If I remove that
apron, do the gears stay with the main part of the deck or does some of
them come off with the apron?
I'm asking because, while I'm still considering a complete teardown
(which
is just a bit more daunting than the A model which I've done before), it
might be good enough if I can maximize the exposure of the gears and
just
settle for cleaning/lubing them in situ. Any comments on that?
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
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