Thanks Bob! I'd posted this last evening but for some reason it didn't go through to tthe mailing list.
> On May 18, 2020, at 11:33 PM, Bob Pdml <[email protected]> wrote: > > There’s a thread from a few weeks ago, round about 18 April, when I asked a > similar question because I’ve been doing something similar. > > What works quite well was suggested by Godfrey. In Lightroom use the white > balance eye-dropper to select the space between the negatives as the > reference white to remove the cast, then invert the colours by dragging the > ends of the curves to the top and bottom respectively. > > This gives you quick results like this, which is good enough for my purposes > in letting me see what I have so I can either throw it away or keep and scan > individual frames. > > https://adobe.ly/3cOnqTe > > I’m using an old Leica copy stand at the A4 setting with a 50mm lens. I > intend to get something similar which does individual frames. --- My post from last evening: - Take a white balance sample from the negative's rebate or a clear spot in an image. That will do a close approximation of removing the crossover mask. - Use the Tone Curve panel in point curve mode to invert the image. You do this by dragging the white point from the top to the bottom and the black point from the bottom to the top. Shape the curve with additional points and adjustments until you get the overall rendering you want. Note: Once you've inverted the tonal curve, all tonal adjustment controls will work inverse to their normal operation. The idea is to rough in the crossover removal and the inversion, save that to a preset. Once you have a decent preset, apply it to all the negs you're working on to get into the ballpark. If you're okay with using the inverted UI, you can finish render right with those, but I usually find it better to export all exposures with auto-import enabled into 16bit TIFF files at this point, then do finishing work on the TIFFs with UI controls operating the normal way. Take a look at https://www.flickr.com/gp/gdgphoto/97c6Ga to see a color negative roughed than finish rendered to a good positive rendering. G > On May 18, 2020, at 7:18 PM, Rick Womer <[email protected]> wrote: > > Ah, but that assumes a film scanner. I’ve been putting slides on a light box > and shooting them with my K-5 (on a tripod) and a macro lens. > > So, I need a software solution that runs on a Mac. Any ideas? > > > >> On May 18, 2020, at 10:14 PM, Mark Roberts <[email protected]> >> wrote: >> >> Rick Womer wrote: >> >>> Ive been going through lots of family photos the last few days for an >>> upcoming event. >>> >>> Most of the shots were slides, but a substantial number were prints. For >>> many of those, the prints are lost but the negatives remain. >>> >>> Is there a way, without huge investment, to turn scanned color negatives >>> into positives? >> >> All film scanners I know of have software that does the necessary >> inversion and color mask removal. >> . -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
