With a cheap Pantone Huey. Can leave it out in it's cradle to continually 
assess room light and adjust accordingly, but have rarely done that. 
When last a "geek" was hear working on this system, he thought the screen was 
somewhat dark and bumped the brightness. I promptly returned it to its "pre 
geek" setting.
In printing, if R1800 (no plan to upgrade) controls the color, I bump the 
brightness about 10 points, if PS controls the print, I simply brighten the 
image on the screen. I do waste some paper this way, and however impractical, I 
eventually get what I want.
I imagine I operate in a more pragmatic manner than many.

Jack

--- On Mon, 4/5/10, P N Stenquist <[email protected]> wrote:

> From: P N Stenquist <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: PESO" Northern Magnolia
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <[email protected]>
> Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 7:28 AM
> How do you set the brightness on your
> monitor? IMO, when the brightness of typical LCD monitors
> isĀ  adjusted for optimumĀ  viewing in a well lit
> room they are much too bright for accurate photo rendering.
> 
>  My calibration tool (Spyder II) includes a grey scale band
> for judging brightness. But I find that with my iMacs
> 25-inch LCD monitors, if I set it so that every variation of
> gray is clearly visible, it's way too bright. I set the
> brightness of the monitor so that an image printed on my
> Epson 2400 with PhotoShop and an icc paper profile matches.
> Of course I use the calibration tool to set color and white
> point. I suspect the grey band method works okay with top of
> the line monitors, but we ordinary mortals have to use a bit
> of ingenuity to get things right:-).
> 
> Paul
> On Apr 5, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Jack Davis wrote:
> 
> > I did check my monitor and, at least, it seems I see
> no additional detail
> > in the petals.(?)
> > I'll allow that there should be a tolerance inherent
> in such an image.
> > Histogram weighted to right ( 0 left - 255 right), but
> nothing actually stacked up against the right edge. Must
> contain some information.
> > 
> > Jack
> > 
> > --- On Mon, 4/5/10, David J Brooks <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> > 
> >> From: David J Brooks <[email protected]>
> >> Subject: Re: PESO" Northern Magnolia
> >> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <[email protected]>
> >> Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 4:33 AM
> >> Check your monitor Jack. My comment
> >> to Paul is great job on the detail
> >> in the high lights.:-)
> >> 
> >> I like the back drop
> >> 
> >> Dave
> >> 
> >> On Sun, Apr 4, 2010 at 8:53 PM, Jack Davis <[email protected]>
> >> wrote:
> >>> Paul, I intend to check my monitor once more.
> Yes,
> >> it's true, most blossoms are free of all but the
> slightest
> >> bit of texture/detail.
> >>> Do you not see blown out featureless areas on
> >> virtually all petals?
> >>> Even though it may not matter, I'll let you
> know what
> >> I find with my monitor.
> >>> 
> >>> Jack
> >>> 
> >>> --- On Sun, 4/4/10, paul stenquist <[email protected]>
> >> wrote:
> >>> 
> >>>> From: paul stenquist <[email protected]>
> >>>> Subject: PESO" Northern Magnolia
> >>>> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <[email protected]>
> >>>> Date: Sunday, April 4, 2010, 4:31 PM
> >>>> This flowering tree is sometimes
> >>>> called a Northern Magnolia, but it doesn't
> seem to
> >> have
> >>>> anything in common with a real Magnolia.
> It's also
> >> known as
> >>>> a Tulip Tree. In any case, it's a nice
> bloom. And
> >> several in
> >>>> my neighborhood burst forth in bloom
> today. Very
> >> early, I
> >>>> might add.
> >>>> 
> >>>> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=10879237&size=lg
> >>>> 
> >>>> K7 and DA* 60-250
> >>>> --
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> >> 
> >> 
> >> --Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
> >> www.caughtinmotion.com
> >> http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
> >> York Region, Ontario, Canada
> >> 
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