I haven't shot transparencies in years. But working with JPEGs in digital cameras is quite similar:
- Learn to recognize, look for, and place exposure for the Zone VIII or Zone IX parts of the scene. - Let the rest fall where it may, you can't do much about it - Bracket for difficult shots so you have at least one that will be successful. You can do step one in a variety of ways. I started by using a 1 degree spot meter with an EV scale on it; that provides a measure of capture and analysis that is difficult to work through any camera- based metering system due to its specificity and restrictions. I find using a good incident light meter is more consistent and accurate overall, however, as long as you have access to the same light that is falling on your subject. Godfrey On Nov 2, 2006, at 4:53 AM, J and K Messervy wrote: > I've loaded the P67 with Velvia 100F and plan to take some shots > over the > weekend. I'm still in the learning stage with the camera and metering > prism. > > I've been googling exposure systems, etc and it seems a modified > zone system > should work pretty well. Basically, it seems the advice is that > slide film > has a range of about zone 3 to zone 7. Therefore, if I spot meter > with my > *istDL on a spot in the scene that I want to set as the lightest > tone with > detail, it will give an exposure setting for zone 5 (mid grey). I > should > therefore increase that by 3 stops (two stops to reach zone 7 and > one more > to account for the DL being iso 200 and the film being iso 100) and > that > should put the metered part of the scene into zone 7. Then, > providing the > scene doesn't also have shadows too deep for the film to handle, I > should > get a good exposure. > > Am I on the right track? -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
