Paul has hit the nail on the head here. I have just finished processing a
number of RAW images taken around town (on the same walk that produced the
Pineapple Hotel PESO), and found that all I needed to do was to:
Set the Sharpness to 100% - from 25%. This does not seem to add artefacts
as Unsharp Mask can do.
Adjust the exposure to give a little more "oomph" if needed
Depending on lighting, adjust the exposure and/or shadows settings - some
high contrast scenes have needed the shadows lightening.
Set the resolution to 300dpi - from 240 (don't know where that came from: PS
seems to remember the last setting here).
All the above in PS Camera Raw - time - about 30 seconds.
Open the file in PS.
Adjust levels or hue as necessary, Unsharp mask if necessary (not much -
about 70-100% at Threshold 0 and Pixels 1)
Save as a PSD or TIFF.
Resize to either 15x10 (at 300 dpi) , 20x 13.3 (at 720 dpi), or 30x 20 (at
720 dpi), as needed, or if necessary Save for Web, as for the picnic races
photos.
Printing the results on my new HP1310, particularly the 30x20's, has given
me some stunning results, very sharp, brilliant and accurate colour, and
very smooth rendition. I'm tempted to say they are as good as any optical
print would be, but I'd need to do a film to print comparison using a good
lab to tell... hmmm, might do that with some 2� square as well!
John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Stenquist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: Speaking of exposure....
By the way, once you become very familiar with the RAW converter, you'll
finding shooting RAW is just about as time efficient as shooting jpeg. The
average conversion of a good exposure takes less than a minute or two,
perhaps less than some people spend tweaking their jpegs.
Paul
On May 21, 2005, at 7:51 AM, Cotty wrote:
