not sure where to start debugging this VPN problem.  i have an ipsec,
nat-t tunnel between a development network and the main services hub
using isakmpd.  the exchange seems to go smoothly and the tunnel gets
established.

        hub(public_ip) --> {inet} <-- ext-gw(nat-ip) <-- dev-gw(private_ip)

however no traffic gets through from the hub.  this is a sample dump
of a ping from the VPN hub to the development gateway.

        12:02:24.890060 (authentic,confidential): SPI 0x088b62c7:
                        10.12.228.17 > 10.12.170.9: icmp: echo request (encap)
        12:02:24.891659 193.200.155.117.4500 >
                        193.200.155.18.46289:udpencap: esp 193.200.155.117 > 
193.200.155.18
                        spi 0x088B62C7 seq 2 len 116
        12:02:24.892778 193.200.155.18.46289 >
                        193.200.155.117.4500:udpencap: esp 193.200.155.18 > 
193.200.155.117
                        spi 0xE99A3368 seq 27 len 116

as you can see, the echo request passes out the 'enc0' and down the
tunnel to the remote end, where it is apparently decoded and a ping
response is sent back.  this response hits the external interface
and disappears.

i have no clue where to start tracking this down from here.  can i
somehow track this lost packet beyond the external inferace?  or
must i manually decode the packet at this stage and try to uncover
the issue from there?  also, if the packet was malformed or
erroneous could i expect an error log of some description?

any pointers would be appreciated.

nb: disabling 'pf' has no effect
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