Several times I have referred Arachne subscribers to the Dictionary of Needlework 1885 (published 1989 as a reprint from the 2nd edition of 1885) by S.F.A. Caulfeild (Sophia) and B. C. Saward (Blanche): my old Arachne memos of 2/29/16, 1/21/09, 12/29/04 are tucked in my hardback 528-page book.  Book bears an ISBN of 0-907854-10-9 and was published by Blaketon Hall Ltd.  It was originally dedicated to Her Royal Highness the Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lorne (daughter of Queen Victoria).   Devon, I think this is a reference book you should have in your personal library.  It is my first go-to book when looking up any old needlework terminology.  There is a lot of lace content.  Below is what it says about Diaper patterns.  I am not using quote marks because all mail with apostrophes or quotes come to me from Devon with very objectionable black diamonds sprinkled throughout the text.  I do not know if it happens when I write, so I have begun constructing sentences without: ------------------- DIAPER -  on page 153  A term originally denoting a rich material decorated with raised embroidery.  It is now generally employed to denote figured linen cloth, the design being very small, and generally diamond-shaped.  (Jeri:  It says generally, but I took a special Diaper pattern embroidery design class 40 years ago at a Valentine Assembly needlework conference in Richmond Virginia, and we also designed repeat squares - think of how tiles are installed on walls and floors.)  It is also used to signify a towel:  Let one attend him with a silver basin, Another bear the ewer, the third a diaper.  Shakespeare  Diaper is a damask linen, manufactured in Ireland and Scotland; there is a kind called Union, composed of linen and cotton.  There are also cotton ones, including Russian Diaper.  The finest linen Diapers, with the smallest Diamond, Fish, or Bird's-eye patterns, are chiefly used for infants pinafores, and other articles of their dress.  The name of this material is derived from that of the city in Flanders where the manufacture originated being formerly called - d ipre - or, Ypres.  The Birds-eye may be had in either linen or cotton, the former measuring from 34 inches to 44 inches in width, the latter 34 inches; Pheasant-eye or Fish-eye measures from 36 inches to 44 inches in width.  Russian linen Diaper may be had in four varieties - the cream-colored at 21 inches, the half-bleached Irish at 24 inches, the Basket-pattern (Barnsley) at 26 inches, and the Fancy Barnsley (which is an extra heavy cloth) at 32 inches in width. ----------------------- The next entry in this Dictionary is for Diaper Couching, which was used in Church work.  More about the Valentine Museum.  Valentine was a family name given to a lovely house museum that had the largest collection of needlework in the Southern U.S.  Along came a new male director who, with his board of directors, banished the needlework - half going to Rhode Island School of Design and the other half to a North Carolina university.  This is when I first began really following what was happening to the history of American women as it related to textiles.  Just saying....!  And then, the American Textile History Museum (mostly about weaving) in Lowell Massachusetts closed a couple years ago without a whimper from the 51 percent of America's adult population who are women.  Indeed, I learned this some time after the museum closed.  Horrible - originally, everything was collected and donated by a woman.  We still get no respect.  I cannot find where the conservation/restoration staff relocated, or where the huge library (including lace books) was sent.  It seems to be a Smithsonian secret.   Americans pay a percentage of our income taxes to support The Smithsonian.  Billions has been spent in recent years on new museums devoted to space, race, etc.  When The Smithsonian is mentioned, women think only of the gowns of the wives of our Presidents.  Period.  One exception, if you read Arachne:  Karen Thompson tells us about the lace collection, her research, and how lace can be viewed once a month by appointment.  How insulting to the history of women that so little can be seen in exhibits.  Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
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