Kerosene also works. It's cheap, less volatile, and less dangerous than acetone.
Bill Wiltschko
---------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [hexayurt] An idea for a more permanent tape solution
(spray adhesive and nylon)
From: Steve Upstill <[email protected]>
Date: Mon, July 08, 2013 9:59 am
To: [email protected]
Just one more question: is there a socially-sanctioned solvent for cleaning up the residue left behind by old yucky tape? (I assume that cleaning it up is a good idea before bonding with contact cement, yes?) I'm thinking acetone, but others with more experience may have better ideas…Thanks,Steve--
On Jul 8, 2013, at 8:21 AM, Steve Upstill <[email protected]> wrote:
Thank you, Jacob! This is most useful. (…and I hope I'm not intruding too much on group bandwidth by thanking in public.)Steve Upstill
On Jul 7, 2013, at 10:45 PM, Jacob Rodriguez <[email protected]> wrote:
Sorry, not sure about "tap plastics". The stuff I'm buying is used for covering furniture, or used as storm windows or whatever. Marine vinyl is really good. I used to think it was 4 gauge vinyl, but it's actually 12 gauge. Probably best to make sure it's UV treated, but mine doesn't say specifically and is proving itself quite well outside for the past month or so. No cracking or getting hard or anything. Anything that is sold to be used outdoors is what you're looking for.Here's a link to Amazon to give you an idea of what you want: http://www.amazon.com/No-Manufacturer-Gauge-Clear-Vinyl/dp/B003ZFA4LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373261515&sr=8-1&keywords=12+gauge+vinylI've also just updated a document that explains a lot of stuff here. One thing I just learned is not to use the "eco friendly" contact cement that cleans up with water. Use the hardcore stuff. I'm all for saving the environment, but the 'Woodweld' in a green can is not what you want (takes too long to get tacky and dry). Find the "original" stuff in the red can if you can.Using 4 vs 6 inches is up to you. I'm personally going with 4 inches for my tight hinges (giving me 2 inches of contact on either board) and then 7 inch strips on my loose hinges (3 inches will be taken up by my board thickness (1.5"), and then 2" on each surface). In my experience, that seems to be plenty strong. See my tests (labeled "Test") on various things. Those prototypes only have 1.5 inches on each board, and some of that is over masking tape, reducing their adhesion; they hold up pretty well. Though it never hurts to overbuild, and if you're doing a regular hexayurt, you won't use too much, so why not? On my quad dome, I have something like 136 joins/edges that need to be done, so I will require about 31 yds of the stuff. Something like that anyway.Have fun!
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