> > a. Not upper class, more middling. > b. pleats are fine by me. > c. have at least 4x waist. > d. allowing for bum roll > > Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy'ing > my > buns back there tomorrow to pick them up. > Too bad though- cartridge pleating/gauging is a really pretty look!
Both Dorothea gowns (Sabine and Maria) are essentially gauged even though they are both made from dense fabrics. Figure 340 in Patterns of Fashion especially shows how fine the gathers are. They show so little of the fabric that you can't really call them pleats, it is much closer to gauging than what should be called cartridge pleating. Also the child's gown c1600 is gathered. I may have a few issues with how confusing it gets when cartridge pleats are meant to be padded and you know, look like a row of cartridges ;) But the term is used to refer to even gathers. These are technically 17thC of course. It's generally a case of make the fabric fit- which is pretty much the extent of what tailors say in their manuals. Nothing about specific methods or percentages. Just "make these parts match". Also important is how much flare to the skirt gores you use because they really are a key to what region and what time frame you are aiming for. And gores are really important everywhere except for 1590s on and some of the Italian stuff. Basically you get more hem for your buck by goring. Even Eleanora's skirt has pleats that are wider than they are deep, or rather there are narrow knife pleats with expanses of unpleated fabric. Not really something you can rigorously calculate ;) Michaela -- http://arrayedindreams.com http://neimhaille.tumblr.com http://glittersweet.deviantart.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/Michaela-de-Bruce/152637694808851 _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
