I have three wedding gowns of this period, 1879-1884; two have confirmed dates. All are two pieced. One is embroidered net, one of silk striped (2"satin)shear. The third (1879) is all cotton batiste with copious eyelet trim (worn by my daughter for her 1994 wedding). All have 3/4 sleeves. The first two feature modified basque bodices with fullness in the back; the skirts are of 3 panels with the extra fullness center back...as Fran has described. The cotton gown is designed to have the bodice edge tucked beneath the waistband. The skirt has a polonaise that suggests 'bustle'; the shaped waist sash accentuates this detail. The richness of this gown is proclaimed by the generous use of lace...the ruffles edging the skirts are all underlaid with 5" val lace,also ruffled! The skirt lengths are all placed at the ankle.
________________________________________ From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press [f...@lavoltapress.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 11:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding in 1882 Early in 1882 she was probably wearing a dress with only a small bustle (the "natural form" era), though late in 1882 it would have been a larger bustle. She had on either a polonaise (long tunic) over a skirt, or a bodice/overskirt/skirt ensemble. Either the polonaise or the overskirt likely provided the back drapery. Her dress probably had a high day neckline and 3/4 or full length sleeves, but might well have had detachable parts (a front gilet, and lower sleeves) to turn it into a lower-necked, shorter-sleeved evening dress, especially if it was an expensive dress. Wedding dresses were often worn as evening dresses after the wedding, if the bride expected to attend many social events. Other than that, there's not enough detail to go on. The dress was likely off-white, but might have been colored, if it were to be used later as a day dress by a bride who did not expect to attend many evening events. As for the mother-in-law, a shiny fabric (satin) and glittering jewels (diamonds) were not mourning. You might be interested in my book Fashions of the Gilded Age, which contains patterns, images, and descriptions of wedding dresses in Volume 2. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 6/19/2013 7:38 PM, Cathy Raitt wrote: > On a recent trip "home" I found a letter written by my great grandmother to > her sister describing her daughter's wedding, which I have been trying to > transcribe. The wedding took place at home and the bride's attire was > described as a "simple costume." Her veil was described, but not the dress > itself. This is what I've been able to figure out so far. (Some of the > words might not be exactly right - I'm still deciphering the handwriting!) > > > > "The pure white --- veiling(?) trimmedwith many rows of lace and with > drapery of white watered ribbon at the back was very pretty. The veil a > large square of tulle fell a little over her face and was caught on one side > of the head by a cluster of natural white roses. Anotherbunch at the left > side of the neck among the laces and a third larger upon the skirts holding > the veils back a little. Black stockings & slippers and long white gloves > made up the t---- ensemble. The only ornaments were a beautiful Silver comb > & earrings sent her by Cousin..." > > > > What would this dress have looked like? We haven't been able to find any > pictures that could be this gown. > > > > She comments that the groom's mother looked "uncommonly well in black satin > & lace. Some beautiful diamonds at her throat." Was it normal to wear black > to a wedding? How long would someone wear mourning for a son? (The groom's > brother had died in 1875.) > > > > Thanks! > > Cathy > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
