Good puzzle. My thoughts: First off I am not sure we can trust the artist to be able to represent what was really 'going on'. A way to construct the garment to make it look like the picture is to construct it so.... The front opening is offset (on his left side). It needn't be functional (the garment could be pulled over the head) the front opening could be open to a point above the breast, but below the shoulder. The sleeves seams are completely sewn up. His arm is coming out the armscye...the sleeve is only sewn to the garment at the cap.
Let me know what you think! Sg On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 7:09 PM, Claire Clarke <angha...@adam.com.au> wrote: > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 13:54:18 -0600 (CST) > From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" <pi...@hundred-acre-wood.com> > To: Historical Costume <h-cost...@indra.com> > Subject: [h-cost] 14th c. German interpretation assistance > Message-ID: <alpine.deb.2.00.1301111347480.31...@rocky.itasca.net> > Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed > > > So I have this friend who said "if you make it for me I will wear it" and I > want to make this outer garment: > > http://diglit.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/diglit/cpg848/0141?sid=8d563ad12e918dcb1c > d18fb352e23e86 > > I am having a disagreement with my other half about how to interpret it, > though. It's the only one in the manuscript, I just doublechecked, so > nothing to compare it with. Anyway and anyhow, what *I* read is that it has > sleeves attached at the shoulder but then the body is slit up all the way > to > the armpit on the sides, or at least the left side. Then the sleeve seam is > on the bottom, and this seam is also slit to allow the arm to come out. And > it has buttons up the front. > > Thoughts, anyone? > > Jen > > **************************************** > This kind of surcoat is called a garde-corps. It was very common wear in > the > 13th century for professional men, and was also sometimes worn by clerics > and later by women. You can still occasionally see it worn right through to > the fifteenth century. The sleeves are wide and gathered into the sleeve > head, and there is usually a slit down the front (or the sleeve seam is > rotated and left open) so the arms can come out (the sleeves themselves are > usually longer than the actual arm). A buttoned slit at the neck is also > common, although the surcoat is not usually split all the way down and the > slit up the front - presumably to make it easier for this guy to ride - is > actually relatively unusual. > > I made one of these a while ago for wearing over thirteenth and fourteenth > century clothes and it's really comfortable and warm - and really good if > you want to be doing stuff with your hands. There's a pattern in "Mediaeval > Costume in England and France: The 13th, 14th and 15th centuries" by Mary > Houston, but it's not hard to figure out without one. > > Claire > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > -- -Sg- _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume