BINGO! A bavolet. LD On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 3:09 PM, <lauren.wal...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > > Thank you, Lynn! The project is a surprise birthday gift for a friend of > mine, I'm dressing one of the miniphile.com Grodnerthal-style dolls. My > plan is to do two outfits from 1849 and two from 1889, a day dress and ball > gown for each of the two years. It's been driving me crazy to keep it a > secret, so I may have to share some photos before I've got the whole thing > finished. > > Is the frill a "bavolet"? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Lynn Downward" <lynndownw...@gmail.com> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-cost...@indra.com> > Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 5:06:31 PM > Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions > > Hi Lauren, > > Welcome to millinary, a wonderful, terrible art. > > I can answer two of your questions. however, the question of symmetry (#2 > and #4) depended on the year and the desire of the wearer. Sometimes > symmetry was all, sometimes asymmetry was the way to go. Perhaps someone > with more experience in 1849 fashion can help you there. > > However, yes, a straw bonnet would have that curtain in the back to cover > your (naked!) neck. It could be made of the lining fabric or part of the > trimming ribbon or even some of the fabric to match your dress. There's a > French term that means 'curtain', can't remember it right now and that > ruffle at the back is usually called by that name. > > The lining could have been shirred and look poofy or smooth against inside > of the bonnet and/or (are you getting the terrible part yet?) she is > wearing a cap. As soon as I wrote 'women always covered their hair' I > remembered dozens of photographs of women whose hair showed. > > Best wishes on your project. I hope you'll take pictures and send us a link > to admire. > > LynnD > > On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 1:55 PM, <lauren.wal...@comcast.net> wrote: > > > > > > > Hi, > > > > I'm working on a 1/12 scale (dollhouse miniature) of the outfit in an > 1849 > > fashion plate. (If you've subscribed to the Costume Gallery, it's part of > > the "Year in Fashion: 1949" collection, > > http://www.costumegallery.com/1849/ . It's the March 1849 Fashion > > Plate : Lady with Children .) > > > > > > > > I'm almost done with the gown and moving on to the bonne t. I am not > > very knowledgeable about 19th-century headwear, and am hoping someone > with > > expertise can give me a clue or two or three . > > > > > > > > The bonnet appears to be straw, and I think it is more or less the > typical > > shape of that decade, which I've seen variously described as > > cottage/spoon/scuttle . I've read that by 1849 the brim, while still > large > > in circumference, no longer extended very far out beyond the face, which > > seems consistent with the image . Other examples from the same year that > > I've seen had a straight top line rather than a break between the caul > and > > brim. A ribbon trims the hat, more or less where the caul would turn into > > the brim if they were not continuous. > > > > > > > > So far so good. > > > > > > > > The plate doesn't show the back of the bonnet. Other examples from around > > the same time have some kind of fabric ruffle on the back at the bottom > of > > the caul, coming forward as far as the ribbon trim. > > > > > > > > Here are my questions: > > > > 1) None of the real-life bonnets I've looked at is straw. On these other > > bonnets, the fabric ruffle is made of the same fashion fabric as the > > outside of the bonnet. Would a straw bonnet have the ruffle? What would > it > > be made of on a straw hat? > > > > > > > > 2) The bonnet in the fashion plate has an elaborate bow and tassel trim > on > > the visible side. Would there have been the same trim on both sides of > the > > head ? Or just on one side? > > > > > > > > 3) There's something sort of poufy or ruffly going on inside the brim of > > the bonnet. Would the lining have been poufy or did fashionable women > still > > wear caps under their bonnets in '49? > > > > 4) There are also flowers trimming the inside of the brim. Would those > > have been arranged the same way on both sides of the head, or > > asymmetrically? > > > > > > > > Thank you for any thoughts you might share! > > > > Best, > > > > Lauren > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > _______________________________________________ > > h-costume mailing list > > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
