The code in question won't have changed in GTK 3 to 4, though; the link just happens to be to master.
The original syntax showed here is for GMenu style menus, which - I get the impression - are intended to be static and not change their text at runtime, so if I'm right, it would make sense that you can't get at the widgets that make up the menu, as that's an implementation detail. However, reading https://mail.gnome.org/archives/gtk-list/2014-October/msg00036.html did make me wonder whether an <attribute> node (not attribute *attribute*) on the item might work. I didn't try it, though.
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