THANKS MUCH to all for the great suggestions. I'll report how it goes. -DD
________________________________ From: Robbie <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 6:01 PM To: Experimental Film Discussion List Subject: Re: [Frameworks] Cyanotype on film I’ve used InkAid gel medium with cyanotype on clear celluloid with success. On Jul 26, 2018, at 5:55 PM, John Davis <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: I use a similar but slightly different approach and generally get really solid results that work for me - I do both contact printing with found footage and/or my own footage, as well as contact printing with plant material and other light block mediums etc. I have tried the bucket method for coating, applying with sponges, brushes, etc. and have settled on using cotton rags. 1. Using manufactured (out of date) film that's not been processed I bathe in non-hardening fixer until clear (this provides you a factory emulsion base for proper adhesion of solution as opposed to applying your own emulsion - which can be great, but is a whole different animal) 2. Rinse fixer as normal and dry 3. I tape down the film lengths emulsion side up on a clean dry surface on top of construction paper and apply solution with a cotton rag - applying just enough to coat the film and avoid excess which leads to flooding underside of the film (the paper helps absorb excess). Also, I have experimented with both single and double coatings of solution and my results were no different in terms of density, etc. 4. Cut film lengths to length of glass which goes on top of light block medium and expose to UV light source 5. Rinse with water until unexposed solution fully clears - rinse repeat. 6. Dry I have tried mixing my own chemistry from scratch, Photog's Forumulary solution and Bostick and Sullivan solution and like the B&S best for quality and ease of use. I am interested in the variations that occur with different application densities, and experiments with solution density etc, but find the rag method uses the least amount of solution and makes less of a mess in the long run. Exposure times vary depending on light sources. I use the sun and typically expose anywhere from 15 - 30 minutes depending on time of day and/or time of year. Happy to talk more with anyone curious about my results. On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 12:22 PM Rhona Eve Clews <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Have forwarded to an artist I know who did this - hopefully they will reply to you directly! Rhona On 26 Jul 2018, at 20:21, Beebe, Roger W. <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Here’s an answer from Ben Wigley to the Labos list in response to a very similar question. (I’m only bouncing this—haven’t tried it myself.) _____ In this book about Anthotypes - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anthotypes-Explore-darkroom-garden-photographs/dp/1466261005 they apply the emulsion with a brush or a sponge as it applies a much thicker emulsion - to greater effect, than dipping…. perhaps you could try taping to a surface and applying with sponge/brush and then you wouldn’t get it on the back of the film? You could also wait for a coat to dry and apply more? I’m guessing you would need a very long exposure for this technique This is what a friend of mine emailed me when I asked him - not sure if it helps: ' "A gel is required for a carrier if the film is bare plastic: Gelatine, Agar Subcoat with chrome alum hardened gelatine or agar, overcoat with cyanotype in gelatine. There may be an issue with the heat of molten gelatine (agar is worse as it requires a higher temperature) curing off the cyanotype reagent (turning it blue). Cool gelatine to as close to the gelling point as possible before adding cyanotype sensitiser. May need to use a restrainer - few drops of 10% sodium chlorate per 20ml cyanotype reagent - this will also increase contrast, and lower sensitivity. OR you can overcoat the fixed film with gel / cyanotype emulsion If you use fixed out print film - When fixing film do not use a hardening fixer, plain hypo is fine. Under red light soak the fixed, washed in deionised water and dried film in a strong solution of cyanotype ? double strength? with a trace of wetting agent, like Photo flo, Remember the volume of cyanotype solution soaking into the gelatine film layer is minute and will appear to run off the film then drain and dry, remove adhering spots of water on the film surface with a tissue. When dry load film into camera under subdued or red light. Remember cyanotype sensitivity is very low much less than 1ASA, so single shot time exposures will be required for each frame - determine exposure by trial and error. There is still some fine detail I’m not describing, but I’ve never done this on film before.” On Jul 26, 2018, at 2:45 PM, Devon D <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Howdy Frameworkers, Trying to do some cyanotype on film, 16mm & 35mm, having trouble getting the solution to stick and coat evenly on the film. Anybody have tips? Thanks bunches, Devon Damonte Olympia, WA _______________________________________________ FrameWorks mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks _______________________________________________ FrameWorks mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks _______________________________________________ FrameWorks mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks _______________________________________________ FrameWorks mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
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