Thanks Tom. This sounds fairly similar to the "solder blob" method, which I did not find as easy as claimed - but I suppose I won't know unless I buy one and try it out!!! :-)
I think I'll probably bite the bullet and order one. On Fri, 2004-08-27 at 08:39, Tom Hammond wrote: > At 10:24 PM 8/26/04, Brian Mury wrote: > > Tom Hammond wrote: > > > It's also great for tinning toroidal inductor leads... a nice side > > > benefit. > > > >Hi Tom, care to describe how you use it in that fashion? I found > >stripping and tinning the toroid leads to be the only part of building > >my K2 that I didn't enjoy (I used the solder blob method). I've got the > >KSSB and KPA100 sitting here waiting to be built, and I'm tempted by the > >sale on the Hakko 808 - help me justify it! :-) > > Why certainly. It's disgustingly easy... > > I don't recall who first posted it here (maybe Don Brown), but here goes: > > 1) Wind the toroidal inductor and space the turns out > as required. Cut the leads to about 3/4" long (max.). > > 2) Take each of the toroidal inductor leads and bend > them STRAIGHT OUT from the body of the core.. like > wings. This will allow you to tin the lead almost > right up to the body of the core, which ensures that > when you install the inductor, you don't pull any > of the enameled lead down into the plated-thru hole, > possibly creating a poorly soldered connection. > > 3) With the Hakko 808 desoldering tool hot and ready to > play, melt some solder into the nozzle and then slowly > (1-2 seconds) insert the inductor lead all the way up > to the turns on the inductor. > > In about 1-2 seconds (max.) the enamel will begin to > bubble up and smoke. > > 4) HOLD the trigger (sucking the solder out of the nozzle) > and slowly remove the inductor lead. This should leave > you with a perfectly tinned inductor lead. > > If there's any burnt enamel remaining on the wire, and this is NOT unusual, > it can usually be broken off the wire with a thumbnail as the wire is > pulled between the thumb and forefinger. > > When the leads are again folded back against the body of the core, the > tinned portion of each wire should extend to (or just slightly past) the > outer edge of the core itself. > > Like said, nuthin' to it! IF you have a Hakko 808.... <G> > > 73, > > Tom N0SS -- 73, Brian VE7NGR _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [email protected] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
