Very sorry to reply to my own post, but steps 1 and 2 have to be reversed to reproduce the problem:

1. In Edit | Preferences | Appearance, check "Pictures only" under "Show toolbars as".

2. In Edit | Preferences | Appearance | Themes, select the Classic theme and click OK.

For some reason, Iceape won't switch themes unless you click "OK" immediately after you select the theme.



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