I bet the problem has something to do with the residue left with the
_apt owner stuff...

# find /var/lib/apt/lists/partial -ls
 49345   17 drwx------   2 _apt     root        16384 Sep 25 18:52 
/var/lib/apt/lists/partial
 49381   18 -rw-r--r--   1 root     root        18409 Aug 15 09:21 
/var/lib/apt/lists/partial/ftp.tw.debian.org_debian_dists_experimental_contrib_i18n_Translation-en


OK I moved that file to /tmp and now indeed "aptitude update" is
working.

I moved it back, and "aptitude update" is still working (but maybe that
is because it was freshly updated.)

As this is on a "sneakernet" disk, I use
   chown root:root lists
   chown _apt:root lists/partial
at boot.

OK I'll use
   chown -R _apt:root lists/partial
or better yet
   find lists/partial -type f -delete

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